|358 page views|
This route climbs a great slab with some very tricky gear but straightforward moves, then attacks a cruxy roof to gain the anchor.
Climbs the fairly blank slab to the right of Co-Ed Crack and finishes right of Archbishop.
4 bolts plus medium to large nuts and a few small cams.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R
Pretty cool climb, guys! I enjoyed the great slab part. It was more fun than I thought it would be. The upper part was hard, felt harder than 5.10a. The steep, upper part is really hard to read; the holds aren't obvious and everything looks the same and like it might come off if you pull too hard on it.
Felt pretty R rated to me. I didn't get any pro in between the first and second bolts, and placed a couple pieces (green Camalot and red WC Zero) before the first bolt but still pretty high off the ground. I enjoyed the route, though. Thanks!
|By Christopher Sorensen|
From: Provo, UT
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R
The main slab before the overhang is great, fun, balancy climbing that is really enjoyable. Not particularly difficult, but not as straightforward as it looks from the bottom.
The top overhung part is deceptive. It looks like there are plenty of good, positive holds, but when you're feeling around up there, the edges are surprisingly slopey.
I also agree that it was definitely an R rated climb. I followed and noticed only two possible gear placement (which Tristan used), neither of which were exactly bomber, and there is an enormous (25 ft?) runout between the first and second bolt. The climbing on that runout is not particularly scary, but a slip near the top would result in a broken ankle.
Overall, a really fun climb, a cool change of pace when you get from the not very steep but balancy slab, to the more physical burly section at the top.