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Alpine Rock

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Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

School Bus
The classic climbing/descending route in West Magnolia. Near Nederland, CO
Re-Root
One of the more fun trails in West Mag with several optional big technical moves. Near Nederland, CO
West Magnolia Tour
A perimeter tour of the maze that is the West Magnolia trail system. Near Nederland, CO
Walker Ranch
A classic loop near boulder with a nice mix of technical riding, flowy descents, and scenery. Near Boulder, CO
The Cougar Slayer
The course of the eponymous underground, unsanctioned, unofficial, mountain bike race/adventure. Near Nederland, CO
Winiger Ridge Trail
A singletrack out and back on a scenic ridge line. Near Nederland, CO
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Alpine Rock  


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Location: 40.2565, -105.6569 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,233,868
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 11, 2005
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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I was going to take a shot of Ken on the summit, h...

Description 

This "area" is for alpine rock climbing in Colorado. Alpine is probably the true "Mountain" Project terrain. These routes truly lie in the mountains. This is the terrain of the alpinist, the all-arounder. Generally here, you must be comfortable in whatever the environment will throw at you.

Alpine is the home of the marmots and pikas in the warmer months. In the colder months, this is the land of the frozen. Scattered here is the terrain in which weather, exposure, season, loose rock, ice, snow, route-finding, lightning, precipitation, and altitude can dramatically affect one's experience. All these climbs involve heights of at least 8,000 feet and are above treeline. With these factors comes increased risks but potential for increased rewards and memories that can last a lifetime.

Getting There 

These climbs cover the state from the Crestones, the Sangre de Cristos, the Mosquito Range, the Collegiates, the Sawatch, the San Juans, the Gores, the Front Range, the Elks, the Indian Peaks, the Mummy Range, the Never Summer Mountains, Rocky Mountain National Park or whatever range you wish to include. Look high and you will find them. You will drive but then you will hike, since most all of these will require some extended approaches. Some will require overnight trips. Nearly all will have season considerations for the majority of climbers.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

695 Total Routes

['4 Stars',98],['3 Stars',275],['2 Stars',229],['1 Star',76],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',105],['5.7',52],['5.8',42],['5.9',66],['5.10',97],['5.11',54],['5.12',22],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',50],['V4-5',29],['V6-7',42],['V8-9',29],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',35],['>=V14',3]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Alpine Rock:
The Notch Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Long's Peak : Upper East Face
Little Bear-Blanca Traverse   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, Alpine   Blanca Peak
Kiener's Route   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   Long's Peak : Upper East Face
Wham Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 2000'   The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak
North Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Northeast Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth
Ellingwood Ledges   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   The Crestones
South Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
Culp-Bossier   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
The Flying Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker
Syke's Sickle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Casual Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
The Barb   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Days of Heaven   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   Long's Peak : The Diamond
D7   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Ariana   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Sinners On Sunday   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
The Wasp   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages
Browse More Classics in Alpine Rock

Featured Route For Alpine Rock
The green line shows a direct start, but to me it seemed rather short and not worth bothering with ropes etc. especially since there's such a nice snow climb up around it. <br /> <br />We climbed the snow (1st red line) to the base of the wall, then our P1 (blue line), the P2 (2nd red line). <br /> <br />P1 was a full 60m. <br />P2 was ~45m. <br /> <br />Many variations exist.

East Ridge Direct 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 Steep Snow R  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Bancroft
The direct E. Ridge of Mt. Bancroft is accessed from just above Loch Lomond. The route is a sustained class 4 ridge scramble with a 60' rappel required in the middle, and several places of low 5th class climbing, especially out of the notch you rap into.There is a harder variation to this route which goes straight up the headwall of the NE buttress. In winter, the climbing on this variation is rather difficult, though low 5th class, due to the snow/ice on all the ledges and the lack of suitabl...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Alpine Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Hi there, guys!
Hi there, guys!
Quite the gathering of juveniles. <br />
Quite the gathering of juveniles.
Clearing snowstorm in the Grenadiers.
Clearing snowstorm in the Grenadiers.
Mountain goats.
Mountain goats.
Remote San Juan wall.
Remote San Juan wall.
One of a herd of mountain goats just above the Lenawee Mountain lift at A-Basin.
One of a herd of mountain goats just above the Len...
The Diamond.
The Diamond.
Great bouldering up Lime Creek . . . I think.
Great bouldering up Lime Creek . . . I think.
Kelso summit goat.
Kelso summit goat.
La Platas sunrise from Mesa Verde, 9-2009.
La Platas sunrise from Mesa Verde, 9-2009.
To serve, to strive . . . .
To serve, to strive . . . .
San Juan vista.
San Juan vista.
Leaving Beartown and Hunchback Pass . . . .
Leaving Beartown and Hunchback Pass . . . .
Long's Peak Diamond and boulderfield. <br /> <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Long's Peak Diamond and boulderfield. Photo by Bl...
Grazing rights.
BETA PHOTO: Grazing rights.
Monitor Peak's East face in the Needles in Colorado's San Juan Range.
Monitor Peak's East face in the Needles in Colorad...
Starting a traverse across the Harvard-Columbia knife's edge.
Starting a traverse across the Harvard-Columbia kn...

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