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By Will Creed
From Fort Collins
Mar 24, 2013
Sierras
I'm just getting into mountaineering, esp. alpine rock, and was wondering what more experienced people had on their feet. Currently I've just been using boots for the easier stuff (up to 5.4) and my super tight pair of rock shoes for everything else. This has worked on some of the shorter routes I've done, but I'm looking to try some Grade IV alpine routes this summer, and am doubting how well this system is gonna work. What type of shoes or combination of shoes have you guys found work best?

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By bevans
Mar 24, 2013
You will get a myriad of different recommendations. They'll probably range from TC Pros to MoccAsyms to LS Miuras to Anasazi Verdes. Maybe some Scarpa Technos. A few LS Mythos fans. Then some crazy guy will pipe up telling you Solutions are the only shoe... Somebody else will tell you he does everything in his Guide Tennies. Somebody might say flip flops.

Long story short. Nobody is right and everybody is right. Find a comfortable climbing shoe that you can keep on your feet all day long without going crazy. YOUR feet...with whatever funky bone spurs, callouses, weirdly shaped toes, etc. that make them YOUR feet.

You will not be limited to some particular number grade by the shoes you wear at this stage. Besides, you won't be pushing your number grade limit in the alpine anyway.

Over time you will figure out what you like.

edit to add: as far as combos...it all depends on the route. light approach shoes with aluminum crampons that (sorta) fit, insulated boots and a shared pair of climbing shoes with a partner, light boots and tech crampons with no shoes... You will be climbing a while before you get to a point where this is really critical. The routes you should start out on will be straight-forward from a footwear standpoint.

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By AnthonyM
Mar 24, 2013
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
I use approach shoes for anything without snow (5.7 tops anything harder I need my rock climbing shoes) and if there is some snow involved I either bring heavy hiking shoes or mountaineering boots... Invest in some approach shoes-REI and backcountry have 20% off right now!

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By Mark Wyss
From Denver, CO
Mar 24, 2013
Mt. Baker
IMO this is going to depend on the approach and how light you want to go on the trip. I use my Sportiva Gandas all the time for approach and there was one occasion when the climbing shoes accidentally were left at the car. I was still able to climb that day without much trouble. They are great shoes! Sportiva also makes a Ganda Guide that you can consider as well.

If Sportiva shoes normally fit, you should look into the Gandas. Also take into consideration the sizing (size down a half size if you want to climb a lot of rock in them).

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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Mar 24, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life
backcountry.com/la-sportiva-xp...

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 24, 2013
El Chorro
I use Guide Tennies until about 5.6 or 5.7 and then Five Ten Galileos.

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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Mar 24, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
scarpa gecko guides are 50% off on backcountry

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Mar 24, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...


Do you suppose Sportiva tennis fit any different than their boots? I cannot wear Sportiva boots

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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Mar 24, 2013
Mountain Bandito
TC Pros, mythos, or mono-point! Something that your foot sits flat in. Once my rock shoes stretch out, then they are the perfect alpine shoe for wearing a nice pair of warm and fuzzy socks on those cold ass alpine climbs.

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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Mar 25, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life
Ben Beckerich wrote:
Do you suppose Sportiva tennis fit any different than their boots? I cannot wear Sportiva boots


I don't have any experience with Sportiva boots but I DO know that their approach shoes favor a narrow foot.

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Mar 25, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Austin Baird wrote:
I don't have any experience with Sportiva boots but I DO know that their approach shoes favor a narrow foot.


Exactly what I was wondering.. apparently my feets is fat.

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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Mar 25, 2013
Profile Icon
Dude, check out the latest "Climbing" magazine. The gear reviews aren't bad and there's a couple very good long day rock shoes in there including some awesome Scarpa shoe good for Alpine Rock. Just a suggestion.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Mar 25, 2013
Day Lily.
+1 from me on the approach shoe and comfortable climbing shoe (my cold weather climb shoes have JUST enough room for a thin pair of socks also, nylon dress sock thin). I have the scarpa crux approach shoes (fitted for hiking) that I will climb up to +/- 5.4 in (they're ackward since they're .5 larger due to fit for hiking, I could see if good fit being able to comfortably climb up to 5.7ish).

I love the approach shoes, they make the adventure that much more comfortable/fun/efficient; especially on multi-pitch climbs.

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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Mar 25, 2013
downclimb off the First Flatiron photo by TooTallT...
Austin Baird wrote:
...xplorer-shoe-mens...



+1

My feet are fairly wide (I can't wear most Scarpas) but I can wear the Xplorers with orthotics. I use these for soloing alpine routes up to 5.7; they were fine for the E Buttress of Whitney. For long alpine traverses where the terrain is mostly 5.7 and below with a few harder bits, I bring my lightest climbing shoes. If it's something more sustained I haul my heavier, stiffer trad shoes. For something like the Hulk I would wear trail running shoes on the approach. The Gandas climb the best of the approach shoes, but they are also have very little cushioning in the forefoot (too little for me).

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By doligo
Mar 25, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Cale Hoopes wrote:
Dude, check out the latest "Climbing" magazine. The gear reviews aren't bad and there's a couple very good long day rock shoes in there including some awesome Scarpa shoe good for Alpine Rock. Just a suggestion.


Do you really think under-staffed, under-funded paper magazines who rely on advertisers could give you objective gear reviews?

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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Mar 25, 2013
Profile Icon
Suck it Doligo, I know some of the reviewers. It's all just opinion anyway. Do something productive.

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