Alpine Rock Climbing Routes

I trying to come up with some climbing objectives for this summer and fall, and some of the alpine rock routes look amazing, like the stuff in the Wind River Range, the Tetons, parts of Colorado. (I’m talking about above-the-tree-line alpine rock climbing, not Himalaya/Denali/Rainier alpinist climbing.) I’m not considering anything that would involve snow or ice skills... for now. (I’m totally down for that, but my partner for this trip isn’t.)

I’ve done multi-pitch trad, but I’ve never climbed in a true alpine climate in the mountains.

My question for all you mountain men and mountain women is: How is climbing in the alpine different from “regular” multi-pitch trad climbing at lower elevations? Are there any additional skills one should have before trying to tackle a route in the mountains? Is there any reason a competent trad climber with a sense of adventure and sound common sense wouldn’t be able to do one of these lines?

I assume alpine rock climbing often involves earlier starts (to beat the afternoon storms), longer approaches and descents, more variable weather, more difficult route finding, more loose rock (due to less traffic), less or no fixed belay or rappel stations. I also assume one should have general knowledge of mountain weather patterns, self-rescue systems, and first aid (due to the remote locations).

Anything else should I consider before deciding whether to attempt something in the mountains? Any books or other resources that would help me out? I’m especially curious to hear from anyone who has made this transition themselves. Thanks in advance.

Less oxygen, typically.

Greeley wrote:I assume alpine rock climbing often involves earlier starts (to beat the afternoon storms), longer approaches and descents, more variable weather, more difficult route finding, more loose rock (due to less traffic), less or no fixed belay or rappel stations. I also assume one should have general knowledge of mountain weather patterns, self-rescue systems, and first aid (due to the remote locations).

Yes. In general be self sufficient, leave earlier they you may think and more then moving fast be efficient and always on the go. The higher you are the slower in general you will move, and the more exposed to the elements, cold, snow, storms you are, keep that in mind with ALL of your planning. Know the weather, LOOK UP every once in a while and be ok with retreating if the sky looks black.

Start small and move up. Example, the Tetons are much more accessible than the Winds. The approaches, though long, are much shorter, the logistics easier to manage, the routes generally not as long, and there are other people near by. Personally I think it is the best place to learn the skills. Go camp in Garnett Canyon, climb Irenes's Arete, maybe the North Ridge on the Middle, or the SE Ridge on Symetry see how you feel. Give the CMC a go then maybe Exum, then try the complete Exum or the Petzold or the countless other routes. Once you feel more comfortable venture deeper to places like the winds. It is all a progression. Get after it, and enjoy being in the mountains!

You've got it right about route-finding and rockfall.

And if you see a storm on the horizon, or questionable weather, be OK with bailing. Don't get caught on a ridge or peak in a lightning storm, if you can help it. So have an idea of how you would retreat, as you are a lot further from help.

Also, do you have WFA or WFR training? Either is helpful.

Thanks, guys. Helpful suggestions.

FrankPS wrote:Also, do you have WFA or WFR training? Either is helpful.

Yep, I have WFA training.

You hit all big factors Greely but I would add be prepared for rock that may not be as solid as well traveled trad routes, as well as the need for some creative anchor building at times. Of great importance, in alpine climbing you need to be efficient and fast when possible. While I am not suggesting cutting corners, the text book of trad climbing may not always fully apply in alpine, as perfection can cost you dearly in terms of time. Have no doubt, time is added risk.

Finally and most importantly,all of these factors we speak of are cumulative, so small matters often collect and go unnoticed, or they are under appreciated until they manifest into a collective problem.

If you can only remember one thing from this exchange, remember this: Always be thinking, and always be moving.

Good Luck,

Greeley wrote: I assume alpine rock climbing often involves earlier starts (to beat the afternoon storms), longer approaches and descents, more variable weather, more difficult route finding, more loose rock (due to less traffic), less or no fixed belay or rappel stations. I also assume one should have general knowledge of mountain weather patterns, self-rescue systems, and first aid (due to the remote locations).

Yup. And all those things together mean you want to learn to move quickly and efficiently over very varied terrain. Part of this is efficiency in all matters involving rope and gear handling, belay changeovers, and multiple rappels, and part of it is being solid and ground below your fifth-class limit so that fiddling with gear is greatly reduced whenever the terrain is not taxing.

The Tetons is an ideal place to start. It is perhaps the most compact and accessible alpine range in the U.S, and has plenty of variety in terms of size and difficulty. The Wyoming ranges can have very severe afternoon thunderstorms and sometimes a pretty bad pattern moves in for a few days. Here's a shot of Lonesome Lake in the Cirque of the Towers after one of those worse storms---this was in early August.

For the Tetons:

The East Ridge of Disappointment Peak is a fun short 5.6 and almost the entire approach is on a major trail. You'll probably need an ice axe for the upper snowfield and the descent, unless you do it late in the season.

Middle Teton is a good climb to get introduced to moderately steep snow.

If you climb 5.10 trad, Cathedral Buttress is a fabulous wall and can be done without snow travel by mid-season. But it's not quite above tree line.

Rock Springs Buttress has a bunch of excellent cragging. It's below tree line, but I still highly recommend it if you got some extra time to spend in the Tetons. Mostly climbs are 2-3 pitches, and it's got both sport and trad. Doesn't require snow travel.

This is an excellent guidebook
climbingwyoming.com/guidebo…

Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher is a good book.