Alpine draws versus quick draws
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When sport climbing I use quick draws and when trad climbing I use alpine draws for their length adjustability. I also believe that the flexiblity in webbing on alpine draws keep my pieces from walking out of placement. Even with this reasoning, I see a lot of people using quick draws when trad climbing. Is there any advantage other than the space they take up on your rack? |
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Everybody has their own trad racking preferences. Most are valid. |
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Keithb00ne wrote:When sport climbing I use quick draws and when trad climbing I use alpine draws for their length adjustability. I also believe that the flexiblity in webbing on alpine draws keep my pieces from walking out of placement. Even with this reasoning, I see a lot of people using quick draws when trad climbing. Is there any advantage other than the space they take up on your rack?I do think that using a stiff draw, like a Petzl, on some trad gear can be problematic. Like you said, the lack of flexibility can contribute to walking/lifting of gear. I do take them on gear climbs, but I am careful about where I use them. |
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Meh, I just carry 1-2 because they are light, easier to clip and because I don't always need to extend. The only thing doak didn't mention is that they can be good when you don't need to extend, but you buried the cam and need a little length to clear the crack. |
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I posted this same question a couple days ago: mountainproject.com/v/why-u… |
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The BD Oz draws are sooo lightweight, and they're pretty slim on the gear loops. The weight penalty is really small for the versatility and convenience that they offer. I usually bring a half dozen, (plus slings/biners) unless I have specific gear beta. |
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I generally only bring quickdraws on trad climbs for clipping nuts. to rope, or long draws. keeps me from having to carry loose biners on my harness |
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Hiro wrote: Probably a lot of us carry them just because we have a bunch of sport gear, so might as well use some of it. Rather than it being a purposeful purchase...Yup, this. |
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I supplement with longer draws and place them where I have no need to extend the alpine draw. I even carry a screamer or two for small nut placements or pitons. |
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it completely depends on the route i am climbing. if i know it will be primarily consistent cracks with very little need for longer slings, i will bring mostly QD's and a couple slings. this is nice because it minimizes the mess a bit. |
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Well, QDs are far less of a clusterfuck on your harness (or all the hassle extending and clipping when the climbing gets real pushy) when you need a lot of them! There is a lot to be said for keeping a neat rack. Bulky tangly slings suck and can ensnare all sorts of things including other slings and pieces of gear. Alpine slings are one of those things that are good on paper but can be a PITA in practice, especially when wearing gloves in tough conditions. Icy extendo slings really suck! |
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And for the love of god: do not put Petzl Strings, rubber keeprs or tape on the clipping biner on an open sling! There is a reason dogbones are sewn the way they are.... |
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Keithb00ne wrote:When sport climbing I use quick draws and when trad climbing I use alpine draws for their length adjustability. I also believe that the flexiblity in webbing on alpine draws keep my pieces from walking out of placement. Even with this reasoning, I see a lot of people using quick draws when trad climbing. Is there any advantage other than the space they take up on your rack?I take and quite often use both. If I'm climbing say a crack that doesn't wander too much then quick draws are fine. If I need to zigzag or traverse with a single rope then alpines can be handy. Different again for double-rope climbing, for me. Personal preference is all it is. |