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North Clear Creek
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Alpine Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Craig Stannard and Bob Cormany, 1978
Page Views: 2,112
Submitted By: Sam Adams on Oct 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Alpine dihedral.

Description 

This line is a little confusing at first only because the first ledge at approximately 40' has a double bolt anchor. If you only want to do the lower section this is fine, but I would not recommend doing this route in two pitches. The 5.8+ crux is right off this ledge and a fall here so close to the anchor would be not so good.

Start by climbing the left facing corner to an awkward bulge to the previously mentioned ledge. Take rest and pull the bulge above the ledge with a handcrack. Continue through a couple more 5.8 moves in a very nice and well protected hand crack. Traverse left near the top to find double bolt anchors at a spacious ledge.

Dixie Cragger's Atlas notes an alternate finish up and right, but I saw nothing that looked like it would go at 5.8 or less to the right; however it looked like an easy 4th class to the top continuing to the left past the belay ledge.

This is a great climb with challenging crux that is a little exposed and very worthy of your attention.

Location 

Two ropes to reach the ground or walk off.
The climb is easy to find by following the guidebook. It starts in a shady corner with a large hemlock

Protection 

A bolt just below the crux at the ledge and a bolt above the crux. both seemed useless as there is better protection nearby and probably added in the 90's. Otherwise a standard rack of nuts, tricams, and cams up to #4 camalot. Plenty of runners.


Photos of Alpine Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the Alpine Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the Alpine Dihedral
Alpine Dihedral.
Alpine Dihedral.
Top section of Alpine Dihedral.
Top section of Alpine Dihedral.

Comments on Alpine Dihedral Add Comment
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By Brad McKnight
Sep 28, 2012

Haha, Grade III? Ha, I mean its a great route, but someone needs to change that.
By Travis Griggs
Mar 4, 2013

Yep, AD can be climbed in a single pitch. It's silly to call it a Grade III. I'm not sure where that came from...

Fun climb though. I took a monster whipper on this one when my toe slipped on a wet hold about half way up the second pitch. I'd just stopped to place pro and was a little run out when it happened. A little purple camalot caught the fall and I ended up hanging left of the belay ledge, just about even with my partner.

Good times! This could be a good one for an aspiring multi-pitch climber to cut his/her teeth on. The belay ledge is nice and big, the crack soaks up midsize pro, and the falls are clean. I recommend it.
By DrRockso
Sep 3, 2013

Pulled off the 50 lbs death block next the the fixed bolt on the second pitch. Great route. Did this in one pitch, you MUST have a 70m rope to lower to the ground from the top bolted anchors, alternatively lower or rap to the 1st set of bolted anchors.
By Chris Jones
Mar 1, 2014

who is the dickweed that added the double bolt anchor in the middle of the best single pitch crack in the obed. someone please chop and fill. wait a minute, am i reading that someone bolted this crack for protection in this route description. kelly, if you read this please authorize someone to clean up this mess. there should be no bolts on this route other than top rap anchors, if any.
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Nov 30, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

With a single 60m rope, rapping to the first set of anchors is doable, but very awkward, as the top anchors are not at all in-line with the first set of anchors. Like others have noted, a 70m to the ground is recommended. This is a fantastic route for the grade, don't pass it up!