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May 21, 2012
Has anyone been up on anything in the park? I suspect south faces are okay, north faces? Glacier Gorge? Drew Clements
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Oct 13, 2011
4 points
May 21, 2012
I'm also interested Tim Zander
Joined Sep 27, 2010
12 points
May 22, 2012
photo by Forest Woodward
I've been up to the Chasm Lake cirque and Andrews creek area in the past week, and both areas were good to go as far as rock climbing. The trails were either melted out or well packed snow, super easy walking.

The diamond looks ready, although I have yet to get up there and the N chmy might still be in mixed conditions.

South facing rock in on Mt Otis was very dry and warm. The shortcut trail to Mills lake, skypond, etc is dry.

Glacier Gorge, though, is a major pain to hike in to right now. A vicious wind storm over the winter uprooted hundreds of big trees above Mills lake. This area will be difficult until the rangers get back there with chainsaws. But they'll probably do that soon, so maybe give them a call.

Finally, beware if you're gonna get out on wkdays, the road back to bear lake, glacier gorge trailhead, etc is closing every night at 8pm for construction. If you epic and get back to the car late, be prepared to bivy in the parking lot. Not sure how long this lasts, check their site.
Scott Bennett
Joined Jan 9, 2008
1,151 points
May 22, 2012
Anyone taken a look at ice/snow conditions on Long's/Meeker recently? Will Dreamweaver/Flying Dutchman/Notch Couloir form up at all this year? I'm planning on being there looking for ice or snow in a couple weeks. Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
May 22, 2012
Thanks, I'm aware of the construction issue in glacier gorge but I didn't know about the windthrow. I think the bus/shuttle deal is going to last a considerable part of the season, I was anticipating bivies for glacier gorge. Again, thank you! That will help me plan out some early ascents...hopefully. Drew Clements
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Oct 13, 2011
4 points
May 23, 2012
Auto-X, my buddy and I climbed part of Dreamweaver on 5/19. Most of the approach had just a dusting of new snow. The snowfield leading up to the first rock step was fairly consolidated with 3-4 inches of new snow on top. We were kicking steps, but it wasnít too deep. As we got higher, though, the snow got deeper and more unconsolidated. We bailed after going a little ways above the top of the Flying Buttress due to it being late and poor conditions. I was trying to wallow up through thigh-deep loose snow. It snowed on us most of the day, though the snow was melting on any rock or bare ground since it was warm out. We didnít get a good look at the Dutchman and Notch since the clouds had come in by the time we got closer to the E face.

Edit: I just saw a post on 14ers.com from someone who climbed it on 5/22, and it sounds like he had much better snow conditions:

Re: Colorado Couloir Conditions
by astrobassman Ľ 23 May 2012, 10:59

Went up Dreamweaver yesterday (5/22). The snow conditions made for a fast climb. The cruxes are starting to get iced up so two tools was nice to have. The third crux was the hardest. I havenít done this route before, but from pictures it looks like more ice can form in the cruxes than what we experienced, so in a few weeks it might make for more interesting ice climbing.
Brice W
Joined Jul 31, 2001
64 points
May 23, 2012
Mountain Bandito
Climbed Dream Weaver on 5/21 and it was in great condition and probaly getting better. Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,469 points
May 24, 2012
Has anyone been on or near the Hourglass Couliour lately? Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Joined Apr 7, 2011
885 points
 
May 25, 2012
Monastery
We tried the Hourglass Couloir last weekend but couldn't get through the Glacier Gorge because of the fallen trees (more than just one). I'd call to check if the trees have been cleared before attempting the approach. It took us several hours to move less than half a mile over the trees before we turned back. Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Joined Feb 13, 2011
56 points
May 28, 2012
Thanks for the info about the downed trees. I spoke to a ranger today and he informed me that most of the trees have been cleared.

Does anyone have any information on route or approach conditions for any of the following routes/areas?
-Hourglass coulior
-Blitzen Ridge
-Notchtop South Ridge

Any words of wisdom are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Joined Apr 7, 2011
885 points
May 29, 2012
How's Broadway Looking? Any recent Pics out there? AGough
Joined Mar 16, 2009
17 points
May 29, 2012
Bocan
From Hwy 7 it looked pretty snowy. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
May 29, 2012
Yesterday it looked pretty snowy. I also noticed some snow on a couple of the ledges on the Casual Route.

BUT, I should definitely say that this was from the tiny airplane window at ~22k'.

The entire north face was also ~20-30% snow covered (patchy).
Casey Bernal
From Arvada, CO
Joined Jan 20, 2006
349 points
May 29, 2012
Lincoln Lake
Climbed Dream Weaver on Sunday, great conditions, with good ice on all of the steps. Here's a shot of Longs for those wondering about Broadway.

Longs 05/27/12
Longs 05/27/12
Mike Morin
From On the Road
Joined Nov 4, 2007
1,277 points
May 31, 2012
Just to reply to Simon Thompson update from the NPS, the trail to Glacier Gorge is far from being cleared. I'm not sure if the NPS is aware of the extent of the downed trees or not, but they have only cleared about 100 yards of the 0.5 mile or so of the tree hellscape. It took my buddy and every bit of an hour to negotiate our way through going to spearhead and +2 hrs on the way back on Tuesday (5/29). It is a maze and is difficult to follow any path or lack thereof and nearly impossible by headlamp. We looked at the area from up on the ridge above Black Lake and it looks like a 0.5 mile crop circle. Craziest thing I have ever seen. Plan accordingly and bring your chainsaw... Russell Errett
Joined Sep 3, 2010
2 points
May 31, 2012
Me
Hello all

This might help . . .

mountainproject.com/v/trail-re...

Happy sending
Lyont72
From Foco, CO
Joined Dec 7, 2011
228 points
 
Jun 1, 2012
S. Facing rock is dry (Notchtop & Petit having seen more than a few ascents already) or mostly dry. Getting to the base of the Petit, depending on the morning and time of day, an ice axe, boots and crampons are helpful. Notchtop's trail in is snowy but the final approach to the base is mostly snow-free. Hallet is still drippy but I've heard the Chimney might be in good shape? The Culp-Bossier usually dries up first. The Chasm View Wall is mostly dry and Martha's had pretty good ice in it as of a few days ago. Another guide was on Kieners a few days ago and said Alexander's looked in as did the Eighth Route. Many N. Faces still hold ice and it seems to be growing lately (ie, Dreamweaver). Much less snow this winter than usual, as we all know, so it should be a long alpine-rock season! acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Jun 2, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Russell Errett wrote:
Just to reply to Simon Thompson update from the NPS, the trail to Glacier Gorge is far from being cleared. I'm not sure if the NPS is aware of the extent of the downed trees or not, but they have only cleared about 100 yards of the 0.5 mile or so of the tree hellscape. It took my buddy and every bit of an hour to negotiate our way through going to spearhead and +2 hrs on the way back on Tuesday (5/29). It is a maze and is difficult to follow any path or lack thereof and nearly impossible by headlamp. We looked at the area from up on the ridge above Black Lake and it looks like a 0.5 mile crop circle. Craziest thing I have ever seen. Plan accordingly and bring your chainsaw...


so true, act of God caliber destruction
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Jun 2, 2012
North face of long's.
Has anyone been on the cables route/north face of Long's? I hear they got some snow over the past week or so - I'm wondering if the face is consolidated or at risk of sliding with the warm temps.

Thanks.
BWIce
From Carlisle, PA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
30 points
Jun 6, 2012
Any updates, or intelligent guesses about what the warm weekend will do to n-facing ice and snow (lamb's slide, Dreamweaver, Notch Couloir)?

I'm currently planning on climbing those sort of routes with an early start, as it appears to me that temps should be below freezing on north faces at night. Will they be mush by noon?
Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
Jun 6, 2012
Some buddies went up to Hourglass Couloir recently and I overheard them talking about it; sounds like it was mostly snow, not much ice.

I've spent a few days on n-facing stuff in the Park and elsewhere; if it's been even slightly overcast overnight and/or temps haven't reached freezing, the snow isn't that great for climbing the following day and warms up really quick. This hasn't been awful, ankle-deep steps for example, but not the truly frozen "neve" that we'd like to see. However, things warm and get sloppy quickly, especially on the peripheries of snowfields. It all depends on the preceding night and I guess I've just been out on warmer nights lately. I haven't seen any wet-avalanche activity, personally, nor have I heard of any but there's been a fair bit of rockfall activity in the mornings. I saw ice in some areas that was gone 3-4 days later.

We found good ice in Total Abandon on Pikes Peak's N. Face last weekend; it was wet but still fun to climb grade 4 ice in June.
acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Jun 10, 2012
gg
N. Chimney, 6/9/2012.
N. Chimney, 6/9/2012.


Diamond, 6/9/2012.
Diamond, 6/9/2012.


Lamb's Slide, 6/9/2012.
Lamb's Slide, 6/9/2012.


[edit: added higher res photos]
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Jun 11, 2012
turkey rocks
I can add a few more from my after work run/hike up to Chasm Lake last week Wednesday (6/6).
Lower East face of Long's on 6/6/2012.
Lower East face of Long's on 6/6/2012.


Some of the mixed routes on Long's east face look good still and the Big D should be ready to go in a week or so if weather stays warm.

The approach to Chasm Lake is 99% snow free with just a few hundred feet of soft snow in the traverse heading over to Chasm from Sky Potty junction.

The Diamond as seen from the east side of Chasm La...
The Diamond as seen from the east side of Chasm Lake.
kirkadirka
From Boulder
Joined Jan 18, 2006
343 points
Jun 11, 2012
Dreamweaver is on the way 'out', if you are expecting neve sections and ice cruxes. One crux is totally melted, but easy scrambling up blocks. Another was a detached sheet of ice that prohibited climbing directly up it, or getting to the rock behind. We tiptoed up - one of us took the left rock wall at about 5.5, the other two did the narrow slot on small but positive hook moves while avoiding using the hollow ice at about M4. Several other ice steps were nice climbing, and while the snow isn't neve, it's mostly consolidated enough to make for good steps.

It's still fun, and might be pretty good if we get a cold snap to firm things up and keep rockfall at bay. It only just touched freezing at 12k' the night before we climbed.

We managed some very long simul-climbing "pitches" (3 total) with one 60m rope, 6 cams, 8 nuts, and one lost arrow. We had a screw but found no ice to take it. Each of us had one ice tool and one hybrid (Sum'Tec). These weren't strictly needed, but made the cruxes fun and easy.
Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
 
Jun 11, 2012
Hallet Peak had a few snow fields to cross on the approach, wall is dry. Except the shower you get below the roof on Love Route. abovethebolts
Joined Mar 10, 2007
6 points
Jun 11, 2012
Upper Parunuweap Canyon
thanks for the great pics, Greg fossana
From Sin City & Bishop
Joined Apr 30, 2006
12,061 points


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