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Alpine Climbing - Book suggestion?
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By Derek W
Jan 25, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron
Has anybody read "Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher"? Its the one with the red cover and a picture of a guy's feet with crampons on the rocks.

I am looking for a book with more detail than Freedom of the Hills but I'd read a review that said if you have FotH and an advanced rock climbing skills book, which I have both of, to not bother with this one.

Can anyone back that up? Make other suggestions for winter snow/ice/glacier travel that goes beyond Freedom of the Hills?

Thanks

FLAG
By Jeremy Bauman
From Lakewood, CO
Jan 26, 2011
Climbing the headwall of Second Comming
I have it and highly recommend it to my friends. Since reading it I have definitely improved my alpine climbing form and reduced weight, as well as learn a bunch of interesting tricks of the trade.

Great book!

FLAG
By Micahisaac
From Longmont, CO
Jan 26, 2011
soloing Boulder Canyon Upper Falls
if FOTH is the Old Testament, then Extreme Alpinism is the new testament. It will take you where you need to go.
amazon.com/Extreme-Alpinism-Cl...

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By Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
Jan 26, 2011
Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight. Lots of good information/techniques and a fun read.

Micah beat me by a minute! Extreme Alpinism is closer to Revelations than the Gospel. Exciting but scary.

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By bearbreeder
Jan 26, 2011
Wehling wrote:
Has anybody read "Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher"? Its the one with the red cover and a picture of a guy's feet with crampons on the rocks. I am looking for a book with more detail than Freedom of the Hills but I'd read a review that said if you have FotH and an advanced rock climbing skills book, which I have both of, to not bother with this one. Can anyone back that up? Make other suggestions for winter snow/ice/glacier travel that goes beyond Freedom of the Hills? Thanks



have it, recommend it

they give some very good advice on navigations, techniques, etc ...

IMO better than extreme alpinism ... you can get a lot of whats in extreme alpinism on andy kirkpatricks articles on his site

FLAG
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jan 26, 2011
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.
bearbreeder wrote:
have it, recommend it they give some very good advice on navigations, techniques, etc ... IMO better than extreme alpinism ... you can get a lot of whats in extreme alpinism on andy kirkpatricks articles on his site


I agree. Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher is a very good resource.

FLAG
By KG Lee
From Princeton, NJ
Jan 26, 2011
If you already have rock climbing skills and want to know more about general alpine skills, I think Alpine Climbing is an excellent book. It has a bunch of tricks and tips and is more applicable to the weekend warrior.

Extreme Alpinism on the other hand assumes the reader is already an experience alpinist (e.g. it does not cover glacier rescue techniques whatsoever) wanting to push into big routes in the Greater Ranges. I wouldn't recommend it to a beginning alpinist.

FLAG
By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
Jan 26, 2011
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.
Micah Isaac wrote:
if FOTH is the Old Testament, then Extreme Alpinism is the new testament.


Well then point me in the direction of the Scientology version of alpinism, because I want something so new and so warped that it'll blow my mind. "Put on your Xenu cloak and bivi while standing upright on one leg, for gravity is zero when inside the cloak. Use mental electron migration to think your worldly body up blank slabs and overhanging M15. For training, do couch jumps, repeat."


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By Steve Murphy
From Fort Collins, CO
Jan 26, 2011
Never taunt a goat
Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Selters

Snow Sense, Fredston and Fesler

The Mountaineering Handbook, Connally

The first two will help with travel in snow and crevasse areas (combine with an Avi I course for better understanding). The third is a general mountaineering skills book, but more in-depth than FOTH.

Steve

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By CO_Michael
Jan 26, 2011
Mexico roadside rocks
Excellent Book and Top international guides.

I have climbed with the authors and have the book as well. You can't go wrong.

Mark Houston is the TOP AMERICAN GUIDE. Lives part time in Chamonix and climbs around the world.

cosleyhouston.com/

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By Kevin Craig
Jan 26, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
bearbreeder wrote:
have it, recommend it they give some very good advice on navigations, techniques, etc ... IMO better than extreme alpinism ... you can get a lot of whats in extreme alpinism on andy kirkpatricks articles on his site


+1

TtTYH is a more practical guide. EA is the bigger picture. Ideally get and read both.

Not a big fan of the Connally book. Too many solutions in search of a problem IIRC.

FLAG
By Derek W
Jan 26, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron
Kevin Craig wrote:
Too many solutions in search of a problem IIRC.


What do you mean by this Kevin?

Everyone else, thanks for the input. I'll go ahead and get this book along with maybe a few of the others. I just ordered 4 books from Amazon so I'll probably wait a few weeks....

FLAG
By Tyler Wick
From Bishop, CA
Jan 31, 2011
ECM
I've read them all - FoTH, Mountaineering Handbook, Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher, and Extreme Alpinism.

I actually liked The Mountaineering Handbook the best, and it is the one I use for reference the most. Techniques to Take You Higher definitely has a good section on leadership skills/decision making though.

FLAG
By Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Mar 28, 2011
Nice view
I love that book but no amount of reading can prepare you for the real thing. I always read a chapter and make some quick notes and go climb and use what I have jotted down even if it is as simple as breathing a certain way. Anything helps when shit hits the fan!

FLAG


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