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 ADVANCED
Wolf Creek Pass- West Side
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Alpha Male T 
Cub, The T 
Little (female wolf), The 
Miller's Tale 
Remus 
Romulus 
See Through 
Sheep's Clothing 
Solo Lobo 
Tasty Freeze 
Topless 
Treasure Falls T 

Alpha Male 

WI5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: November to March
Page Views: 1,705
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2002

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Alpha Male on the right, Sheep's Clothing on the l...

Description 

Alpha Male is about 4.5 miles down the west side of Wolf Creek Pass. It is across the canyon from the runaway truck ramp. Of the two definite climbs you'll see, it is the steeper one to the right. Sheep's Clothing is to its left. The easiest, and safest, approach to these climbs is a half hour traverse in from the top.

As for the climb, rappel in for the lead. This year it consists of 3 definite steep sections. Some years it offers no rests. This year there are 2 nice steps to catch your breath on.

Protection 

This climb takes about 6 screws. The ice is nice and thick, although it may be very brittle since it is on the north facing side of Wolf Creek Canyon. Be careful belaying from the bottom, the slope appears that it could avalanche. There is no avalanche danger above the climb, just below it.

Toprope Protection 

Lots of big spruce trees on top for anchors.


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By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Feb 3, 2002

The quickest and safest approach is to park 3.8 miles down the pass. Traverse in staying at or above this altivation.
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Feb 20, 2002

Alpha Male is nice and thick. The recent slightly warmer temps make for more easily climbed ice, too.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 12, 2008
rating: WI5

This climb is always in as it gets virtually no sun all winter. However, it can be wet even in very cold conditions so dress accordingly. Its a great climb and definitely solid for the grade. Can be easily top roped but watch your ends with a 60m rope as that would barely do the job.
By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Jan 6, 2009

This climb is some of the only ice in good shape on WC Pass right now (Jan '09). This year there is one shelf to rest on about 15-20' up, and the rest is vertical plastic with a section of wetness on the right side the last 20' or so. To find it from the top, traverse in from the east on top of the cliff, keep an eye out for a little sub-ridge before the main ridge that separates the cirque from the other climbs farther west, AM is a couple hundred feet from east of this ridge.