By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 28, 2006
I just lead this thing today for the first time in a long time. After the pin, the next piece of gear is a #2 BD about eight feet up past the pin. Another good body length above is a solid blue metolious tcu, followed closely by a solid green Camalot. Anyway, I could think of a handful of tens that would be a much better introduction to leading 5.10 than this thing. It deffinately has a touch of spice. A great line and one of the best around for the grade.
disagree with the author's description. this thing stays with you well past the low section. the 5.7 bit doesn't kick in till about the 50 ft mark!
take small gear for this guy. purple - orange TCU's.
also, if setting up an anchor after the lead, be sure to take a piece of 20ft webbing or a cordelette. there's a tree at the back of the ledge that makes for an excellent anchor point!
lastly, if using a 60m or shorter rope, be weary of the rope end when lowering or rapping.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Aug 13, 2011 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b R
I'm going to have to say this is an R rated lead. If you don't use the pin for your first piece, your first piece of gear is about 5 feet below it and is the smallest C3 (000). After that the pro is spaced out but very good. And the 5.10 definitely stays with you after the crux and it is not until about 50 feet that the 5.7 (if that) kicks in. But, I have to agree with everyone else... this route is definitely 4 stars for consistency and quality of quintessential Devil's Lake moves.
Out of curiosity, Andy, after the pin did you go right and join Vivisection's upper seam or move left into that crack system? When I did it I went left (much easier), but not before getting good gear at the bottom of the right seam.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Aug 14, 2011 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b R
I got a good C3 in the right crack (but within reach) and then did a great cross through move to stay left on Alpha C. Probably gonna head up and do Vivisection next weekend.
I seem to remember soloing this one day in about 1981.I just started up it just bouldering out the start and the next thing I knew I was about 50 feet off the ground and old Bill Russell starts hassling me from vivesection. Pretty funny as Prunes Immeadiatly tells Bill he will be off belay ifn he doesnt shut up.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jul 19, 2012 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
Classic lead! Committing to the pin, but after that the gear gets better the higher you go.
Ed, Nice to see you made it.....i.e. You are still alive! Yes those were some fun solo's back then. You were one of the few who would sack up and solo this with me back then. Mondays at lake were awesome cause there was usually no one else there. Look me up sometime, I am "living the dream " in Eldo. Peace and f-nes Steve S.