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Alpha Centauri 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 3,474
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jan 1, 2002
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Flashing Alpha Centauri, Sept 09. Super fun. Pho...

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Description 

The start of the route is sequential, starting with your right hand will help TONS.

From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.

IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.


Protection 

Actually this is a Mixed route, with a pin right after the crux.



Photos of Alpha Centauri Slideshow Add Photo
 Ragin' 5.10 lead day
Ragin' 5.10 lead day
I do believe this climb happened on "Shane Day"
I do believe this climb happened on "Shane Day"
A barefoot lead of Alpha C. by Steve S.
A barefoot lead of Alpha C. by Steve S.
Gear fiddling on a flash of Alpha C, Sept 09.  Photo: Matt Satermo.
Gear fiddling on a flash of Alpha C, Sept 09. Pho...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 23, 2003

First lead: Jim Erickson

By wayniak
Aug 19, 2005

A long, fun climb in a shady, comfortable area.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2006

I just lead this thing today for the first time in a long time. After the pin, the next piece of gear is a #2 BD about eight feet up past the pin. Another good body length above is a solid blue metolious tcu, followed closely by a solid green Camalot. Anyway, I could think of a handful of tens that would be a much better introduction to leading 5.10 than this thing. It deffinately has a touch of spice. A great line and one of the best around for the grade.

By Ed Wright
Jul 24, 2008

I led this once in a warm summer rainstorm--the fact that I had it wired helped a bit!! There is a good rp placement before the pin--right after the hard start--if you want to bother.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 22, 2008

The nicest version of this line starts up Alpha C., then jogs right to the incipient crack that forms the middle section of Vivisection.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Definitely agree with Doug that the best version goes up and right.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 24, 2010

disagree with the author's description. this thing stays with you well past the low section. the 5.7 bit doesn't kick in till about the 50 ft mark!

take small gear for this guy. purple - orange TCU's.

also, if setting up an anchor after the lead, be sure to take a piece of 20ft webbing or a cordelette. there's a tree at the back of the ledge that makes for an excellent anchor point!

lastly, if using a 60m or shorter rope, be weary of the rope end when lowering or rapping.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

I'm going to have to say this is an R rated lead. If you don't use the pin for your first piece, your first piece of gear is about 5 feet below it and is the smallest C3 (000). After that the pro is spaced out but very good. And the 5.10 definitely stays with you after the crux and it is not until about 50 feet that the 5.7 (if that) kicks in. But, I have to agree with everyone else... this route is definitely 4 stars for consistency and quality of quintessential Devil's Lake moves.

By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 14, 2011

Out of curiosity, Andy, after the pin did you go right and join Vivisection's upper seam or move left into that crack system? When I did it I went left (much easier), but not before getting good gear at the bottom of the right seam.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

I got a good C3 in the right crack (but within reach) and then did a great cross through move to stay left on Alpha C. Probably gonna head up and do Vivisection next weekend.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 29, 2011

I seem to remember soloing this one day in about 1981.I just started up it just bouldering out the start and the next thing I knew I was about 50 feet off the ground and old Bill Russell starts hassling me from vivesection. Pretty funny as Prunes Immeadiatly tells Bill he will be off belay ifn he doesnt shut up.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Classic lead! Committing to the pin, but after that the gear gets better the higher you go.

By Ed Krejcik
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 23, 2013

Hey Steve, I remeber solo'ing this with you way back when on a Monday when I had every other Monday off and you were more than willing to hang at the Lake an extra day to pull down. Good Times!

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 28, 2013

Ed, Nice to see you made it.....i.e. You are still alive! Yes those were some fun solo's back then. You were one of the few who would sack up and solo this with me back then. Mondays at lake were awesome cause there was usually no one else there. Look me up sometime, I am "living the dream " in Eldo. Peace and f-nes Steve S.