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Alpha-Bob is located on a short, clean slab directly below the Wall of Winter Warmth. On the left side of the slab, climb up to a small overhang, clip the first bolt and make a hard move onto a small ledge. From the ledge angle up and right making a hard smear move (crux) with the feet and small crimps for the hands. Clip the last of the bolts and mantle up onto a ledge with the anchor.
Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Between Closed Open Space and Leader of the Pack.
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2011
At first glance, this route looks like a piece of Sh&* compared to all of the amazing rock formations around it including Plotinus Wall, Berlin Wall, and Wall of Winter Warmth. However, this climb is actually really fun on bullet hard/ near perfect granite. This is really fun slab climbing that will test out your skills of smearing and standing on nothing and also having virtually no hand holds throughout the middle. I was quite impressed with the quality of this route despite it not getting very high ratings or looking that impressive from the ground. I guarantee if you do it you will think differently as well. In fact, the only reason I even got on the route is because my buddy got shut down on the last bolt before the anchor. I have also seen bail biners on numerous occasions on the same bolt that my buddy bailed on. I still managed to get the onsight, though! The key hear is to trust your feet. Cooler temps are probably a must, as this would probably climb more like 12+ in hot conditions. If you are in the area or headed to Wall of Winter Warmth or Berlin Wall, it's worth getting on. Get on it and Get-er done....