Alpenbock Route  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Ryan Brough on Sep 27, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Start in the corner underneath the Mass Wasting roof. The climbing gets really easy on the ramp, but protection opportunities are rare, so don't pass any up (there are belay chains here if you have a 50 meter rope and can't reach the bottom). Climb around the left (West) side of the Mass Wasting roof and pass a rusty pin. This is where the fun of the route begins. Wind your way up the steep section until you arrive under a small roof. A thin finger-tip crack traverses up and to the right around the roof, providing an exposed, crux finish. Good footwork and sequential hands are key to unlocking the crux. Believe it or not, there are good stances for pro here.

Location 

Between Ionic Bonding and Mass Wasting, start in the corner just left (West) of Red Light District. Walk off or rappel off of Ionic Bonding's chain anchors.

Protection 

Standard rack and a helmet, small TCUs help at the crux. The Ruckman guide shows 3 pins, I only saw one, and it was super manky (and next to a bomber #1 camalot placement). Rope drag is a bear, even if you use long runners. No anchors at top.