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Routes in (4) Big Ben Tower
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Alpen Symphony T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diamond in the Tuff (closed project) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Eat Your Leberkase S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Good Dobby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Howl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karwendel Dreams T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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London Calling T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Time Moves Slow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twice A Day S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Water Groove S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Break It You Buy It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Michael Stoger, Thomas Emde, Nov. 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,784 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jan 18, 2013 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Pitch one: 5.6 or 5.10a. Either climb a mellow slab to the base of pitch two, (we didn't) or climb Dead Baby Bubbas (10a) on the left to access the same point. DBB feels hard for 10a and wasn't that awesome. Definitely some choss. (the slab might be a better option)
Pitch two: 5.12a. Spectacular, hard, cryptic, and very, very atypical of Smith climbing. Start up some easy choss and clip the first bolt. Two more bolts of easier stemming and palming lead to the fourth and final bolt. Clip the bolt and pull into a bizarre sequence of overhanging groove climbing to gain the aesthetic corner above. Still pumpy lie-backing and jamming will eventually take you to a two bolt anchor on an excellent ledge.
Pitch three: 10d. Jaw-droppingly good. From the top of P2, you can just crane your neck far enough back to see a wildly overhanging crack system traversing out to the left of the corner above the belay. It looks improbable and difficult to access, but ties together incredibly well. Mellow moves up the corner lead to a techy traverse left that gains a leftward trending ramp with bolts. Mantle onto the ramp and and commit to a wild undercling traverse up a thinning flake. Clip the final bolt and pull into an incredible sequence of long moves on huge holds that takes you to a final crux on gear. Belay at a two bolt belay on a sloping shelf.
Pitch four: 10a. The escape pitch. A thin slab move on bolts leads to easy climbing and a slightly manky bolted anchor on the summit. There is a brief stretch crap rock at the top of this pitch.
Descent: walk back along the summit towards a small cairn looking for a bolted rap anchor the sends you into the gully climbers right (east) of the summit. Two single rope raps drop you into the gully where you'll have to walk down to another two bolt anchor that will shoot you to the ground in one more single rope rap.
Pitch two: 5.12a. Spectacular, hard, cryptic, and very, very atypical of Smith climbing. Start up some easy choss and clip the first bolt. Two more bolts of easier stemming and palming lead to the fourth and final bolt. Clip the bolt and pull into a bizarre sequence of overhanging groove climbing to gain the aesthetic corner above. Still pumpy lie-backing and jamming will eventually take you to a two bolt anchor on an excellent ledge.
Pitch three: 10d. Jaw-droppingly good. From the top of P2, you can just crane your neck far enough back to see a wildly overhanging crack system traversing out to the left of the corner above the belay. It looks improbable and difficult to access, but ties together incredibly well. Mellow moves up the corner lead to a techy traverse left that gains a leftward trending ramp with bolts. Mantle onto the ramp and and commit to a wild undercling traverse up a thinning flake. Clip the final bolt and pull into an incredible sequence of long moves on huge holds that takes you to a final crux on gear. Belay at a two bolt belay on a sloping shelf.
Pitch four: 10a. The escape pitch. A thin slab move on bolts leads to easy climbing and a slightly manky bolted anchor on the summit. There is a brief stretch crap rock at the top of this pitch.
Descent: walk back along the summit towards a small cairn looking for a bolted rap anchor the sends you into the gully climbers right (east) of the summit. Two single rope raps drop you into the gully where you'll have to walk down to another two bolt anchor that will shoot you to the ground in one more single rope rap.
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