Alone Time with my Banana 

Great climb for a beginner to toprope. A little runout for the 5.6 leader, though.

Good climb, nice quick access if you're in a hurry or have a short day. It felt harder than 5.6 (Maybe 5.7) but it had been raining and the water streak 3/4 the way up was flowing pretty good. A lot of the holds near the water are slimy right now.

Climb on jugs that are still good when wet.

This is a nice, easy sport lead for a competent 5.9 follower, and thus a good intro lead for those people. I think that the R rating in the guidebook pertains to 5.6/5.7 level climbers (because of a 10-15 foot runout between bolts 2 and 3, this is protectable with a cam to the right if desired). After the last bolt, staying right is easier than heading left -- the anchors are directly above you but not visible.

Also, the route is a good practice for learning trad. I was able to find nice gear placements (several stoppers up to about #6 and cams up to #3 Camalot) throughout most of the route, but beginning trad leaders can also clip any of the bolts if necessary.

I think this is pretty runout for the novice leader. You need a long runner if you set some gear between 2-3. There's also a good horizontal for a yellow Alien (orange TCU) above the 4th bolt which makes heading into the steeper terrain a little more palatable. I give it a 5.7, because it's fairly steep towards the top with a slopey topout.

You already know this route is runout, esp for someone expecting 5.6 leading! If you are not a beginner leader and have solid nerves, you'll be fine. This route might be described as too scary for someone trying to lead easy routes and uninteresting to everybody else.

Both myself and the girl climbing with me found it uninteresting - perhaps too uninteresting to risk falling and hurting yourself. Very interested to go back and try using it to place gear though!