Alone Time with my Banana
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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo.
This is the farthest left route on Wall of the '90s. Start about 30' uphill from the Hot Stuff ledge. This may be one of the best 5.6s in the canyon (if not the only one). It is surprisingly great and clean stone and all jugs. It is bolted well for the grade.
6 bolts & two bolt lowering anchor on a good ledge.
|Comments on Alone Time with my Banana
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 30, 2008
Great climb for a beginner to toprope. A little runout for the 5.6 leader, though.
|By Jason Gilbert|
Apr 27, 2009
Good climb, nice quick access if you're in a hurry or have a short day. It felt harder than 5.6 (Maybe 5.7) but it had been raining and the water streak 3/4 the way up was flowing pretty good. A lot of the holds near the water are slimy right now.
|By Brett B.|
Jul 6, 2009
Climb on jugs that are still good when wet.
|By Kevin Cossel|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2009
This is a nice, easy sport lead for a competent 5.9 follower, and thus a good intro lead for those people. I think that the R rating in the guidebook pertains to 5.6/5.7 level climbers (because of a 10-15 foot runout between bolts 2 and 3, this is protectable with a cam to the right if desired). After the last bolt, staying right is easier than heading left -- the anchors are directly above you but not visible.
Also, the route is a good practice for learning trad. I was able to find nice gear placements (several stoppers up to about #6 and cams up to #3 Camalot) throughout most of the route, but beginning trad leaders can also clip any of the bolts if necessary.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 12, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
I think this is pretty runout for the novice leader. You need a long runner if you set some gear between 2-3. There's also a good horizontal for a yellow Alien (orange TCU) above the 4th bolt which makes heading into the steeper terrain a little more palatable. I give it a 5.7, because it's fairly steep towards the top with a slopey topout.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2012
You already know this route is runout, esp for someone expecting 5.6 leading! If you are not a beginner leader and have solid nerves, you'll be fine. This route might be described as too scary for someone trying to lead easy routes and uninteresting to everybody else.
Both myself and the girl climbing with me found it uninteresting - perhaps too uninteresting to risk falling and hurting yourself. Very interested to go back and try using it to place gear though!