Aloha Patrol 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Aaron Rough and Dave Stallard |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Rough on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Dave Stallard on the crux 3rd pitch of Aloha Patro...
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Description This is currently an anomaly in the Bay Area, a spectacular 4 pitch Sport Route! Start on either Standard Issue or White Flag as the 1st pitch.
P2- 5.10b: Head up the vertical huecos/pockets on the red wall above the belay, then up easier block rock eventually heading slightly left to the anchor.
P3- 5.11b: Up easy rock till the overhanging headwall on steep crimps and big moves between good pockets, sidepulls, and underclings. Clip the Leeper bolts that are painted black (line used to be an oil aid bolt ladder) but don't sweat it it, as there are closely spaced regular bolts nearby! Tackle the final bulge on huge holds and then traverse left to anchors.
P4- 5.10b: The final pitch is super featured and fun up an increasingly vertical wall to just slightly overhung right before the crux and the anchors.
To finish the route either rap the route, or have the 2nd pull the lip and wedge themselves in the gully about 20 feet from the rim. The last person can stay clipped in with a long loop for the final moves over the lip and then just reach back down and unclip the anchors. Walk off to the East.
Location This is the main line up the center of the longest vertical section of the cliff.
Protection Lots'ole bolts!
BETA PHOTO: Aloha topo.
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Chad Suchoski on the final 4th pitch of Aloha Patr...
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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Feb 1, 2013
| I agree with the 11B rating. Anyway, a fun route. Do it in two pitches, rappel in three. |
By jacobleowook
Feb 27, 2013
| Summit with the wife as the sun set.
2 rapps with a 70m gets you to the bottom of the slab just above the ground.
Beautiful and fun route if your in the area. More people need to get on these routes. Def not to be missed if in the bay/northern cal area. Thanks to those who made this beautiful area into a great crag. |
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 28, 2013
| This thing is 4 stars classic the whole way. It's a direct line, exposed, sustained, steep and pretty high up there. Sure, there's a bit of choss and what not, but for this wall...
It's the premier classic for the area for sure. If you come to table and only climb one route, this is the one you want without a doubt. |
By Bernard Van De Walle
Apr 15, 2013
| Beautiful line but beware the quality of the rock is a bit messy from time to time, it is possible to take a whipper with a piece of rock in your hand !
The crux section of 3rd pitch is a bit overrated I would say, and it is possible to climb the whole thing in easy aid if needed.
It is possible to top out from it. |
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