Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)
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This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.
Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.
Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.
Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.
|Photos of Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) Slideshow
Nearing the big roof traverse on Golden Earring. ...
Caroline Schaumann climbs crack most excellently.
Jason testing his gear for the first time ever. To...
BETA PHOTO: The corner start to Golden Earring.
The view from the top of Golden Earring (and sever...
|Comments on Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007
Great route! The crack section has some committing moves, but the pro is good and any falls would be clean.
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
A fall anywhere in the first 40 feet of the route would not be clean. A couple extra hand sized pieces are useful.
The rappel is 100 feet.
|By George Heib|
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago.
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
I lead this after the easy Sentinel Buttress and I thought it was much harder than the 5.7 rating. Extend your draws because the rope drag can be dramatic with the traverse. Still a fun route and can't wait to lead it again. A 60m rope gets you down from the fixed pin anchor.
|By Emil Briggs|
Oct 17, 2013
The traverse can be exciting for the second too.