Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard - 1976 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007 |
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An unknown climber leads the beautiful Golden Earr...
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Description This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.
Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.
Location Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.
Protection Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.
Nearing the big roof traverse on Golden Earring. ...
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Caroline Schaumann climbs crack most excellently.
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Jason testing his gear for the first time ever. To...
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| Comments on Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) |
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007
| Great route! The crack section has some committing moves, but the pro is good and any falls would be clean. |
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.7
| A fall anywhere in the first 40 feet of the route would not be clean. A couple extra hand sized pieces are useful.
The rappel is 100 feet. |
By George Heib
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.7+
| Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago. |
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