Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 
Aloof Roof 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 
Command Performance 
Do or Dive 
Doan's Pills 
Excellent Adventure 
Finger Love 
High Wire 
Nuclear Crayon 
Quaker State 
Raise Hell 
Shit Hook 
Stab in the Dark 
Step and Fetch 
Wailing Wall 
Zombie Woof 

Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard - 1976
Page Views: 4,480
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
An unknown climber leads the beautiful Golden Earr...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.

Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.


Location 

Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.


Protection 

Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.



Photos of Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) Slideshow Add Photo
Caroline Schaumann climbs crack most excellently.
Caroline Schaumann climbs crack most excellently.
The corner start to Golden Earring.
BETA PHOTO: The corner start to Golden Earring.
Nearing the big roof traverse on Golden Earring.  Photo by Michael K.
Nearing the big roof traverse on Golden Earring. ...
Jason testing his gear for the first time ever. Took him a while to finally let go but all went well. Great route to practice falling near the top of the crack.
Jason testing his gear for the first time ever. To...
The view from the top of Golden Earring (and several routes on this wall).
The view from the top of Golden Earring (and sever...
Comments on Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007

Great route! The crack section has some committing moves, but the pro is good and any falls would be clean.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A fall anywhere in the first 40 feet of the route would not be clean. A couple extra hand sized pieces are useful.
The rappel is 100 feet.

By George Heib
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago.

By hause
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I lead this after the easy Sentinel Buttress and I thought it was harder than the 5.7 rating. Extend your draws because the rope drag can be dramatic with the traverse. A 60m rope gets you down from the fixed stoppers anchor.

By Emil Briggs
Oct 17, 2013

The traverse can be exciting for the second too.