Almost French 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Rich Aschert, Bob D'Antonio |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006 |
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Just gettin' into it.
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Description This is one of the old school Cactus Cliff lines. After the initial flake warm up; continuous, technical, pumpy, and sometimes balancy moves await you all the way to the anchors. A few of the sequences are hard to read, but persevere and problem solve. It may be closer to 11d/12a for the onsight climber.
Location It is located on a prow of rock with the obvious, starting, left-facing flake. The line is immediately right of Legends on the Fall and left of the Risky Business corner and Almost Gothic.
Protection 10 bolts to anchors. Watch for some loose holds around the right side of the prow.
Buster Jesik scoping the upper moves.
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Working the bulge.
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Last run.
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| Comments on Almost French |
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By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.12-
| Even after taking the whip of shame the sequence leading to the loose, chockstone undercling did not present itself. Interested to see of something may have broken off the chossy side of the blunt arete.... |
By Terence
From: Almont, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| I hate split grades. You know what is harder than 11d... I bet you didn't guess it was 12a. |
By slim
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d
| Fun route with several interesting sections. The new book gives it 12a, which I don't really agree with as it has been considered benchmark for Shelf 11d for a long time. There aren't any hard moves on it, but there aren't many easy ones either. |
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