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A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste 
Almost Cut My Hair 
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It's Late September 
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My Mind Is A Blank 
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Unsorted Routes:

Almost Cut My Hair 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: in the dim recesses of the past. Or, the mid 1970s
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Robbovius on Jul 26, 2007
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Description 

Start with a strenuous layback on the large flake and small feet, up to the ledge. (first crux) pass thru the left end of the ledge where the roof and ledge meet (a bit tricky, a sort-of 2nd crux)and then go straight up the blocky face to the top.

There are a couple easier variations to the start.

1. Start under the "Militant Right" corner, climb up to the obvious hand crack. traverse right, back to the ledge on bomber hands and small feet. 5.8

2. Start in the "It's Late September" dihedral on the right. 5.7

3. Start on the arete, just outside the "It's Late September" dihedral. Using small feet and somewhat un-positive hands, dyno/deadpoint to a jug. struggle up to the ledge.


Location 

1/3rd of the way down from the north end is a very large, left-slanting ledge under the left end of the prominent roof. The route goes up the flake on the face of the ledge, thru the left end of the "cave" and up the blocky face above.


Protection 

Use top rope anchors, as usual can be either built from gear, or slung from trees on the ledges at the top of the crag. This route is one of the most leadable, though there really isn't much in the way of gear until you're past the ledge/cave and on the upper face. The upper face goes at about 5.6+.



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