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Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Alligator Wall 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1st TR: Tommy Deutchler, 1st Lead: Rich Bechler & Dave Groth
Page Views: 1,350
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Alligator wall (climbs to the left) and Dancing Ma...

Description 

Start with underclings until you reach the large roof, continue up to the left of the roof, layback to overhang and finish on face to top.


Location 

Right inbetween Chez's Chimney and Dancing Madly Backwards. It follows the same start as Dancing Madly backwards, but when you get to the large roof, continue left with laybacks to pull small overhang and continue on quartzite pebbles to top.


Protection 

Good trees to sling on top



Photos of Alligator Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Groth on first lead
Dave Groth on first lead
Comments on Alligator Wall Add Comment
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By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Jul 23, 2007

Has anyone led this route recently and can comment on gear?

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 23, 2007

The gear is the same as for Dancing Madly Backwards for the first 20 feet. Mid sized (small hand sized) 4 cams in the spaces present where the rock is featured with the odd discontinues flakes and jugs. Do not place gear behind the flake top that sits just left and below the left most corner of the overhang. It is somewhat detached and loose/fragile. Above the loose flake and in the corner crack formed by the left facing corner that forms the overhang low down you can get nice larger four cam placements and maybe hexes or larger tricams. Above this there is little or no gear for a good 10-15 stretch unless one traverses left a bit and ties off the large softball shape rock nugget/pebble that is stuck in the rock. Makes a great hand hold too this pebble but it is somewhat left of the natural direct line of Alligator. There a few spots near the top one can get small TCU os C3 in horizontals.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 29, 2008

Comparing this climb to say Mammalary Magic, I'd have to say this climb is a bit harder. Way more physical at the bottom of the climb. Then moving up to small crimps and feet to finish it off. I would give it a 5.10b rating. The holds are as small as Mammalary at top, and more vertical.

I submitted it at 5.9+ to stick with what the guide book says.

Anyone know the FA?

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 1, 2008

fa = dlfa

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 2, 2008

Thx Steve

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 2, 2008

tr fa the infamous tommy d.
first lead. rich and dave

By Tradoholic
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

I had been saving this for an on-sight lead for awhile and today I sacked up and sent.
The gear was fine up to the arching crack and I created a nest with one good cam and a few more micro cams in the crack before I pulled around the roof for the run out. The run out was serious as I couldn't be sure my nest would hold in the sandstone as I was ~15ft above it but at the next horizontal a decent, albeit shallow, cam went in to protect some insecure sloper crimping moves to the top.

One quartzite knob I relied on after the roof looked as if it could pull out at any second but people have been yarding on that thing for a long time so it's probably damn permanent. I think the quartzite knobs embedded all over this crag are the coolest!

As Burt said this takes mostly small gear, try not to fall. I also think 5.10a or b would be fair if you compare this to Arturo or Has Been right next door.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 6, 2009

Way to go Nick. Sounds like this route was FULL VALUE as a lead.

By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

After the last good piece (a bomb .5C4 around 40% up the route) I kept muttering to my belayer "holy cow this thing is intense!". Definitely a heady route. Although I was able to place plenty of gear, none of it was better than a 50% piece, and some much worse! I probably spent 30+ minutes on this route sussing out the gear and trying to summon the courage to move upward. On the upper slab I was able to sling 2 quartzite knobs and place a undercammed shallow #1 camelot, and a marginal #1c3. None of which inspired much confidence. Needless to say I was stoked to top out!