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Alley Oop 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: H. Carter, R. Moyer
Season: Summer
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Joe Puglisi on Sep 17, 2012

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Description 

This complicated route has a little bit of everything. Most of it is unpleasant. It has cracks and slabs near the bottom, an off-width in the middle, and vertical jug hauling at the top. The crux is probably getting into the off-width.

Be careful not to grab a thorny plant or get your rope caught in a bush at the start. Try not to tear off friable rock at the top.


Location 

This climbs the big off-width behind a giant pillar about 30 feet up the trail along the road.


Protection 

Full rack, a #4 Camalot for inside the off-width, and many slings for reducing the heinous drag. There's a piton 20 feet below the top out. Oh, and anchor off the tree that's 30-40 back from the top of route. Feel free to extend to help with the drag there, too. Walk off. (A 70 meter rope may get you back down, not sure. The ends of my 60 meter were a good 20-25 from the ground.)



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