|g. V3 - Middle Earth
P1 (5.7, 80 ft) Climb the thin face (crux) right of Dry Heaves to a small stance below a shallow, right-facing corner about half way between the ground the roof. There is good gear at the stance, but not much below it (Dick Williams' guide says that the FA party used a three-man shoulder stand at what we now call a "bouldery start"). Continue to the right-facing corner, and then work up and left to the roof just right of the blocky corner. Pull through the roof (great protection, big holds) and belay at a pair of bolts just above and left of the roof.
P2 (5.4, 100 ft) A pretty typical 2nd pitch for this part of the Trapps. From the bolts, climb up and right to the first of two left-facing corners. Follow the corners to the ledge above with a small tree. Easy, low-angle climbing on big holds.
To descend, carefully walk left around the corner to a large tree with rappel slings and rap rings on it. Rap down to the P1 belay bolts (angle right) with a single rope. A second rappel from the P1 bolts takes you back to the base of the climb.
Located approximately 12 minutes down the Carriage Road from the Uberfall area (about 2 or 3 minutes past Madame G, and about 8 minutes past the East Trapps Connector trail). Look for a large boulder beneath a low roof with a right-facing corner leading up to the left side. Alley Oop starts behind the boulder and right of the corner.
Standard rack. Small gear helps protect the initial moves. Two-bolt anchor at the top of P1, gear at the top of P2. Rap from a large tree left of P2.
Under the roof on P1.
Pitch one of Alley Oop.
BETA PHOTO: Alley Oop, P1. It's not quite as convoluted as th...
BETA PHOTO: the start
From: New York, NY
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Good and fun climb, the crux is really the start, so don't blow it. It's not as bad as it looks. The roof is fun and well protected. Go ahead and do it.
|By Steve Moulding|
From: New York
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Though I only led P1 (we then rapped off), I really liked this climb. Technically the hardest part was the start but it was certainly fun all the way up P1 with some nice steep exposure moving up to and through the roof.
|By Logan Schiff|
From: NY, NY
Aug 1, 2012
First pitch is fun and worth doing. Rings at top. Crux at ground much easier if you are taller. Second pitch if blah. Third pitch definitely not worth doing as the only descent option visible was a rusty bolt on an ancient cordelette on a small tree.