Alley Oop is one of the better moderate routes at the Overlook. It's just challenging enough to give a beginning leader some interesting moments, but well protected and offers some cool moves. Center right of the wall, look for a wavy crack running up a flat wall that forms the right side of a big corner. Climb up the wavy crack, skirt around a protruding boulder, then continue up. The crux comes where the corner squeezes down to a tight 1/4" crack leading to a horizontal ledge. Get a good nut in a layback your way onto the ledge (a belly flop might be in order if it saves you a fall). Then go to the right end of the ledge and up to the top.
Nuts, cams from 1/2" up to #2 Camalot size
|By David Arthur Sampson|
Sep 25, 2006
I found Alley Ooop to be awkward in places, and difficult to protect in two critical areas. There were a few fun moves, and the direct finish to the climb (off the upper ledge - ~ 5.9) was fun. But, IMHO, there are better moderate climbs at the Overlook.
|By Larry Coats|
Oct 28, 2007
First ascent Scott Baxter et al., early 70's.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Felt really hard for 5.7, IMO. Definately way harder than Mint Jam. I did the direct finish above but that seemed no harder than the rest of the route. I'm going with 5.8 for the whole thing.
|By J. Hickok|
Sep 18, 2012
Those without a guidebook looking for beta here should know that this starts at the base of Amateur Hour. So hopefully you know where that is too - it's tucked up in a nook/corner to the left of the Mourning's Morning area.