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Alley Cat 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,048
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Apr 15, 2001
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Description 

This excellent pitch is located well to the left of the alcove containing Johnny Cat, Mad Dog, etc. There was a plaque identifying the route at the base when I did it. I'm pretty sure that a single 60m rope will get you off.

The pitch starts out by pulling a bulge to a good rest. The crux difficulties begin afterward with a bulging, obtuse corner on very tight hands (tight #1's). The crack eventually widens to perfect hands through a couple roofs to a final big-hands roof. A wide slot guards the anchors, so you may want to haul that #4 camalot up for this bit.

The grade above is from the guidebook, but it felt more like mid-5.11 to me. I have pretty thin hands though.


Protection 

Lots of #1 and #2 camalots. Some #.5 and #.75 camalots for the start and a couple #3's for the top. One could also place a #4 in the slot at the top.



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By Joe Collins
Apr 29, 2003

Actually, you will need two ropes for this one (maybe 1 70m rope).

By crackroach
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

A 70 meter rope will not get you off of this one. Take two ropes. The webbing at the top could use some repair.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 25, 2004

5.11-

By Scott N
Nov 2, 2004

If you have #2 friends or near identical sizes you'll have a little easier time than trying the green/red camalot boogy at the bottom. Kick ass route!

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 4, 2007

A great pitch! Didn't seem 5.12 to me. Also, not as classic as King Cat, so I would detract one star from this route and give it to King Cat making Alley 3.5 stars and King Cat 4 stars.

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2008

Great climb, a couple of #2 Friends are definitely useful. Also, this one gets a bit sandy, it needs some more traffic.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 14, 2008

Just repeated this route yesterday. I actually rapped off with a single 70 meter rope. When the end of the rope came into my belayer's grigri my feet were 4-feet off the ground. Easily downclimbed the rest. Not 5.12 but definitely not 11- either Mr. Anonymous Coward.

By chris Kalous
Nov 11, 2009

Climbed this on 11/7/2009 and while it had a tendency to get a little dirty without traffic in the past, it was absolutely covered in mud inside and out, top to bottom. Horrendous. Even the anchors had collected a layer of mud. I think something above must have shifted or changed above to dump mud down the wall. I doubt it will clean up any time soon. This route is OUT! No stars. RIP.

By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 25, 2010

I was hoping it was sandier than the Arabian desert due to the recent rainstorm. Sad. This would otherwise be an incredible route.

Metal intensive: 1 yellow alien, 1 red alien, 2 BD .5s, 3 .75s, 6 #1s, 3 #2s, 2 #3s and 1 #4 for the top.

Sandiness notwithstanding, no move is harder than non-IC 10d, but this route is an endurofest. You're in spectacular shape if you can onsight. Tie a knot at the end. Without downclimbing you can ever-so-carefully get lowered down on a 70m (clip to a piece, undo knot, belayer's arm extension from the end, magic).

Bring a broom.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Just climbed this route and it was as clean as can be. I guess all the rain we've had this year cleaned it up. Great time to get on it.