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 ADVANCED
Bob's Rocking Chair
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allergic Reaction T 
Blind Man's Glasses T 
Hippies Anonymous T,S,TR 
Jointed Venture T 
Neanderthal or Not at All T 
Squash Rocker T,TR 

Allergic Reaction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Folsom, Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 7th 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 7, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Bob's Rocking Chair with Allergic Reaction drawn i...

Description 

Pitch 1- Begin on Jointed Venture skipping the bolted belay on the ledge. Continue up a fun, easy chimney. At the top of the chimney climb up and left past some blocks and up to a crack. Climb the crack until blocked by a bush and move left onto a slab. Continue up and left and set up a belay in blocks on a good, sandy ledge. 140' (5.9)
Pitch 2- Climb up and right using a diagonal crack which is a bit dirty. Move up through blocks then left to a right leaning crack. Climb up and right following the crack then a ramp to a stance below the roof. A move leads up and left to the roof. Traverse left under roof and then climb chimney/cracks above to the top of the formation. 90' (5.9)


Location 

This climbs the direct south face of Bob's Rocking Chair to the summit of the formation. The climb begins on Jointed Venture and finishes a few feet left of "Bob's Rocking Chair" block at the top of the formation.


Protection 

We brought two sets of cams to #2 camalot, then 1 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #4. Medium to large stoppers. I could have used one more large cam.
No bolts, pitons or other fixed gear was left.



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By mountainsense
Nov 7, 2010

Great job, you guys! I bet the friction was tops! Looking forward to sharing a rope soon, S