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| | New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>
June 2009 Update: There have been recent new developments in climbers access to Allenspur. For years the "Red Barn Antiques" property (now under new ownership) has been off-limits for use to approach the crags- all access has been via the Harper property easement. The current owners, however, are interested allowing climbers to hike to the crags via a more direct trail across the southern end of their property. The SMCC and the landowners have entered into a one-year trial period for SMCC Members and their guests to use this new approach.
For more info and photos:
www.montanaclimbers.org/access/allenspur
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Paradise Valley
Description Sunny, southwest facing, limestone, sport climbing. Excellent views of Paradise Valley. The rock varies from excellent black dolomite to the lighter variety which still can be very good. Climbing is possible year round here but probably best in the spring and fall. Most of the routes are 5.9-5.11 with some newer routes currently being established on the larger part of the Main Crag.
Access: Allen Spur access is fragile and much effort has gone into keeping the climbing open. Be careful, clean, and courteous. Stick to established trails and show respect for the land owners and their property. Leave no trace.
Getting There 5 miles south of Livingston on US 89, left on East river road and park at the fishing access. Use the new trail, now much shorter, that follows East river road and goes directly up to the boundary crag.
A few things to remember about accessing the crags:
-Park at the Carter’s Bridge fishing access, not on East River Road where the trail turns up towards the crag.
-From the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag.
-Do not trespass onto any other portion of the private property.
-The trail is for foot traffic only. No motorized vehicles or bikes.
-Look for the well marked trails signs and cairns.
The new trail access is shorter than the older trail. Please abide by these guidelines!
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Allenspur:
Featured Route For Allenspur
Flake Fest 5.10b MT : Paradise Valley : ... : 7-11 Crag
A fantastic route that goes up one of the most classic flakes and splitters out at Allenspur. All bolted due to the flakes somewhat delicate nature. No individual move is that difficult but it is one of the more sustained routes out here. Go send it! ... [more] Browse More Classics in MT
By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Jul 8, 2009
| I made a couple trips while visiting Gardiner. This area has maybe 40 or so bolted routes, mostly 1 pitch. Very fun limestone. Buy the Southwestern climbing guide book. Park at the fishing access and follow the signs along the east river road for access. |
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2012
| the owner doesn't like dogs, leave yours at home if you want to continue to climb here. |
By Dan Bachen
Jul 21, 2012
| Climbing with dogs at this area seems a little confusing, what I have figured out so far (and I may be wrong so please correct me) is that the new shorter access is not open to dogs and is extensively signed as such. Well behaved dogs are allowed on the older and longer trail through the easement. So if you want to bring dogs to the crag you have to suck it up and use the longer access trail. |
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 22, 2012
| To be honest people with dogs simply shouldn't climb at this crag if they refuse to leave their dogs at home. The climbing is within feet of the owners land and he is very against having dogs on his land. You could use the old access...or you could do all of the climbing community a favor and make sure there is no issue with dogs at this crag by leaving them at home. There are MANY other places that dogs are allowed to hang out at the crag in the area so if MUST bring your dog everywhere go to those areas. Don't ruin it for the rest of us that would like to see Allenspur remain open for the foreseeable future. |
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