Park at the Grist Mill, 0.55 miles east of the Park & Ride. There are drainages every few hundred feet so it's critical you get the correct one.
This area is very recognizable from Little Cottonwood Road (UT 210). The ridge is defined by the huge detached block that sits directly below Hanging Slab. Look for a 200' long slab east of Super Slab and west of Alpenbock Ridge.
Talk about "Climbing Club Central". This scrappy little area was actually one of the first places in the canyon frequented by climbers. Since that time it hasn't seen much interest though... until Johnny Woodward climbed Trench Warfare! Come to think of it... that didn't actually get folks clamoring to come check it out either. :-) But the world was pretty intrigued by the photos! Well... You can come check it out for yourself now. It's kinda' spectacular, in a sick-bat-man-foot-stuck-trad-climber sort of way.
3 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Allen's Ridge Area:
Hanging Slab Gully WI3 Ice, 3 pitches, 300'
Steinfell Route 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Trench Warfare 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, 60'
Featured Route For Allen's Ridge Area
Trench Warfare 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Allen's Ridge Area
This route is among the most difficult crack climbs in the world. Trench Warfare follows the yellow line. Wench Warfare, an extension, follows the green line.I've never successfully redpointed the route. But I sure gave it a good try. I think exiting the pod is the crux. Most folks I've asked about it say there is no distinct crux location. The length of the route is what seems to give it its difficulty. Ironically, it's only about 60' long. But the logic behind it can't be eas...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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