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Elevation: 736 ft
GPS: 40.9199, -74.7493
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Joseph D'Agostino on Mar 2, 2009 · Updates
Admins: SMarsh

Description Suggest change

Crystalline granite cliffs in Sussex County, 10 minutes from I-80. Contains excellent slab, crack and face climbing, with 60+ routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.11d. This area has some of the best, easily accessible climbing in the state!

Approximately 1 hour from most of Northern New Jersey and New York City, a great location for a relaxing day of top-roping and short leads.

Hidden off the road, Allamuchy is nice and shady on a hot summer day. Northeast Mountain Guiding, Riverview Outdoors as well as other services uses the main wall on weekends during the summer. The instructors are friendly, but there are some shorter gems left of the main wall in the woods.

Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Long slings or static rope may be useful for top ropes. Tri-cams are a must here for most routes due to the glacial impact and flared cracks.

Guidebooks: Garden State Climbing by Joseph Vulpis 2020, with color photos, topos and detailed route information. This book also has a detailed history of climbing in New Jersey dating back to 1890 with interviews and photos of our state's oldest climbers! A 3 year project that was published in 2020.

There is a guidebook that came out in 2019 that was just republished in 2023 called Rock Climbing and Bouldering NJ available through Next Ascent Guidebooks.  It covers Allamuchy and other crags in NJ.  They also offer a guidebook app for Allamuchy with 3D topos.

There's also the Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing New Jersey by Paul Nick and Neil J.A. Sloane. All route descriptions taken from here. Topos and photos included, and lots of bouldering areas in the Northern NJ area as well as Central Park in NYC.  Mountain Project also has good, accurate, up-to-date info on this area.

Getting There Suggest change

From Interstate 80, take exit 25 Stanhope/Newton. Follow 206 North to the second light, turn left on county 604. Drive 1.7 miles, park across from wooden fence in one of 2 parking areas on right. Hike up trail into the woods, cliffs are less then 5 minutes from the road. (Be sure to fill out the Park climbing waivers at the trail-head leading to the main cliff.)

72 Total Climbs

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Location: Allamuchy State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Allamuchy State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
Barry's Arete
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
5.6
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Blocky Madness
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
TreeHugger's Need No Apply
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Licky Lichen
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 16
Hourglass
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 12
Baker Man
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 10
Foreign Invasion
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Welcome to Waterloo
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
A Year in the Life
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 5
The Bowl
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
A Year in the Life, Variation 2,…
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Blow Out
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Barry's Arete Main Wall & Right Wall
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
5.6 Cake Wall
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Blocky Madness Upper Lead Wall
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
TreeHugger's Need No Apply Main Wall & Right Wall
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Licky Lichen Upper Lead Wall
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Hourglass Main Wall & Right Wall
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Baker Man Cake Wall
 12
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c TR
Foreign Invasion Main Wall & Right Wall
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Welcome to Waterloo Main Wall & Right Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Year in the Life Main Wall & Right Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Bowl Upper Lead Wall
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R TR
A Year in the Life, Variati… Main Wall & Right Wall
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Blow Out Main Wall & Right Wall
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Allamuchy State Park »

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