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 ADVANCED
Ginger Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All You Can Eat T 
Cayenne corners T 
Fist or Flips T 
Ginger Cracks T 
Power Failure T,S 
Snake Buttress T 
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 
Sugar and Spice T 
Unimpeachable Groping S 

All You Can Eat 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kal Conley, Geoff Conley, Anthony Anagnostou
Season: Warmer Months
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on May 6, 2012

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Matt Kuehl on the alternate 5.11b start to All You...

Description 

All You Can Eat is a fine rock climb that appeases all the types of climbers out there. The smooth corners that make up the first two pitches are a rarity in Red Rock and satisfy those looking to climb some good, splitter crack. It shares the same first half of Power Failure's first pitch. Look for the bolt.

Approach Pitch: This can easily be soloed or rope up if you want. Start at the 1st pitch of Power Failure up to the first bolt. Pull onto the ledge and walk climber's right to a obtuse corner crack system.

There are two options for the first pitch. Both are high quality and engaging.

Pitch 1.a: Start out in the adjacent crack to the left of the obtuse right facing crack and traverse back into the crack above the 2nd bolt. The Direct goes straight up through both bolts and goes at 5.11d. The 11d is comprised of holds facing "the wrong way" and some longer reaches to better holds. The crux is low on the left crack. Strenuous liebacking and a thrilling step across move leads back into the main crack. Once above the 2nd bolt climb easier rock to a nice belay ledge. Two bolt anchor. 90' 5.10c/d, height dependent.

Pitch 1.b: About 25' to the right of the regular start is an offwidth corner/left facing crack. Climb the offwidth to a hand crack. From here the crack constricts and is tips liebacking. Lieback up under the block and surmount the block. Traverse left on a left slanting finger crack and up onto the pillar. 100' 5.11b

Pitch 2: Climb up the left facing corner/crack system past two bolts. The bolts are not necessary if you have small cams and stoppers. The crack goes from tips, to hands to a wide flare past a set of anchors. Skip these and go up to the next set of anchors. There is some loose rock in this section but good cam placements can be found on solid varnish. 100' 5.10a

From here we rapped with a single rope but the route continues up for three more pitches. The following pitches are 5.10c, 5.10d and 5.9. All can be rappelled with a single 60m rope.

Location 

Starts at Power Failure.

Protection 

Single Rack to 5" for the first 2 pitches. RP's and C3's are very helpful. For the remaining pitches add double 6"-8" cams.


Photos of All You Can Eat Slideshow Add Photo
The exceptional pitch two of All You Can Eat!
The exceptional pitch two of All You Can Eat!
The Approach Pitch onto the ledge. Protected by one bolt or can easily be soloed.
The Approach Pitch onto the ledge. Protected by on...

Comments on All You Can Eat Add Comment
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By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2013

The first two pitches are incredible! I'd recommend linking the two pitches together for one spectacular pitch. Also, on the second pitch i'd belay at the first set of anchors you come across because the rock deteriorates near the top.

I thought the variation to the right was at the same grade as the original 5.10c/d. The variation takes at least a #6 or maybe a big bro near the start, but liebacking up to the #3 section felt secure. Jump on this thing!