|The Second Quarry
This is the first wide flared chimney thing running the entire height of the rock face you will see from the approach trail, and is located just left of two bolted routes (Pop Tart and Prime Rib.)
Climb up a sharp nasty pointy, dirty, crack that has so much crud in the bottom of it that if you're skinny enough to fit inside, will feel like you're walking up the hillside via ledges.
Once you reach the slab, keep going up the chimney, or just rap off the large block 50 or so feet off the ground.
Crux is mustering the balls to make a move 5 feet off the ground, and then working your way up.
Wide pro will be most useful (2 - 6"+), and some large slings up top for the chockstones and blocks.