All Washed Up
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The left side of the face, climb obvious small crimps up overhanging rock of excellent quality. At the higher horizontal somewhat larger crimps provide a bit of relief as you figure out how to negotiate the completely blank, rounded topout and get to that jug that's too far away :) Totally awesome problems and reasonably straightforward for the grade compared to some of Joshua Tree's classic "blank" nightmares!
Pad. A bit high - you face a 10-12 foot fall at the crux, make sure you have a good spot and/or don't miss your pad.
BETA PHOTO: An afternoon view of the Sandy Wash Corridor
Yay for good crimps!
|Comments on All Washed Up
|By Josh Beck|
Apr 29, 2003
I have a question regarding All Washed Up and am hoping that someone can help, sorry if this gets anally into details: I know where it starts and I know that it goes to the top somewhere. I know where Soar Eagle is and where it actually tops out. However I've seen pictures of "Mr. X on All Washed Up" where Mr. X is going over the rounded top exactly above the starting holds and first few edges on the way up. I've seen pictures where Mr. Y is reputed to be on All Washed Up but is going over the top a few feet right. I've asked everyone I know who's done it and have received a fair mix of answers about where they went over the top. I know that there are at least a couple of variations / linkups that start on All Washed up or Soar Eagle and finish on the other or climb between them, or whatever. So all that babbling aside, does All Washed Up finish in one particular place or does it not matter if you go straight up vs. traversing right (I know there's one of the variations that traverses all the way right to Soar Eagle, which adds confusion). Not trying to be anal, I'm just really curious, as I worked it once on a drizzly evening and surprised myself by getting up to the good hold below the bulge before it got wet in just a couple of tries, and I figure if I'm going to go try to finish it one of these days I should try to direct my energy at the correct (or easier, or more aesthetic, or whatever seems worthwhile) finish if I'm going to be taking that fall a bunch of times, heh...
As an aside, I got your guide at the PBC, Robert, and it looks awesome so far. All the photos should greatly help with finding some of the obscure stuff that I've not looked for before because I didn't even know enough of the surround formations to start looking!
Anyways, thanks for any details you can provide, not trying to be anal and in the end I'll be happy getting over the top anywhere, but it's kinda a tall fall (for my wimpy self) and I figure I should try to find out where to flail around before I start taking it a lot!
Apr 30, 2003
rating: V7 7a+ PG13
I'd have to say that most everyone (including myself), goes slightly right before going over, which is barely different from the uber direct because you end up going back left with your left hand to the same sloper as if you went direct. It seems that it would be possible to escape the crux entirely by going all the way to the right, but I have never seen anyone do it.
I also finish Bald Eagle the same as all washed up.
I once watched a little girl (maybe 5 or 6) work a low traverse on the horizontal crack 3 feet from the ground, it was crazy, she was doing "rose" moves, drop knees, and she'd get mad when she botched the sequence. I have never seen such focus in a small child before.