All Two Obvious is a great line up the center of Spearhead - the pitches link various features up the wall and for that reason the line is somewhat discontinuous both in terms of direction as well as difficulty. I didn't think it was as good as it's neighbor, Spear Me the Ducktails, but that said, there are some fantastic pitches.
Choose whatever approach pitch you like to get to Middle Earth Ledge and begin just below the left side of the Eye of Mordor.
1: Climb up into a left-facing flake system, undercling left, continue up flakes up and right to a belay ledge just below a 5' long splitter finger crack. 5.9
2: Climb up and right (a good 20' or so right) to another ledge system just below a left-leaning, slightly offset RP seam. This seam is invisible from the previous belay. Note that the guidebook indicates the presence of a pin which is nonexistant. Protect the starting moves with good RP's, then run it out a few feet to more good placements (5.10d with ledgefall potential). Head right on easy ground to a nice ledge and belay at two pins.
3: Climb up and undercling right along the obvious flake, then face climb above to reach another flake system which is followed to a belay stance at right. 5.9 s
4: Continue up the right-facing shallow flake system that becomes a flaring slot of sorts with tricky/limited pro for the first 50' or so. Trend left past two pins in flakes to the obvious circular feature. Belay here (hand size cams) or link with the next pitch (judicious use of runners and pro).
5: Probably the best pitch on the route. Pull out of the circular belay on bomber 5.10- fingerlocks and faceholds. Follow the finger crack up until you can step into a left-facing corner. Follow this to a two-bolt belay out right below the crux pitch.
6: 3 bolts protect the balancey, Not So Obvious moves off the belay; some tricky micro-routefinding leads to a tough pull up into a shallow left-facing corner. Head up this corner and step right into a second corner system - this one protected by another three bolts to another bolted belay. This pitch is a safe lead but would be difficult to French Free. 5.11d, maybe 12a.
7: 4 bolts protect some nice 5.11- face/slab climbing that leads to broken corners/cracks and the summit ledge. This is a short pitch and ends at a bolted belay anchor.
Rap the route with two ropes (staying mostly left of the route) or walk off.
Double RP's, wires, one set of cams to #2 Camalot. A few extra TCU's or Aliens.
|Comments on All Two Obvious
|By Bosier Parsons|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 3, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
I climbed this route on 8/16/05 following Phil Gruber the whole way. Very high quality above Middle Earth Ledge, and highly recommended.
We combined pitches 1 & 2 with about 50' of simul-climbing on 50M ropes. We combined pitches 3 & 4 without simul-climbing, but the climbing on these pitches is somewhat awkward and runout, but also beautiful.
Pitches 5 & 6 are superb and well worth the experience. Pitch 7 is also very good, and a little harder than it appears from the belay.
|By Mark Ferguson|
Jun 18, 2007
12a in my opinion. I tried moving staight up from the second bolt at the crux and it was very difficult. After taking a 15 footer, I headed right from the second bolt which felt a bit easier. Great route.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 24, 2007
I found the crux of All Two Obvious to be slightly easier than the start of Spear Me The Details' crux pitch. All Two Obvious is more slabby though at the hard part so maybe it's just that my sticky rubber is more effective than my skinny arms. Moving right through this section is definitely the key with technical and sequential footwork.
Overall this is a spectacular route, and the final 3 pitches are truly brilliant.
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R
This is a fantastic climb, one of my favorite routes of all time.
The final four pitches are spectacular. There are two difficult sections on the crux pitch. The first involves foot intensive slab work and the second is a very powerful pull into the dihedral. I think this last move is the hardest single move on the pitch.