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All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! 

WI5 M6 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus: WI5 M6 [details]
FA: Chris Thomas and Rick Vance, 1/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,292
Submitted By: christ on Jan 28, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: From the GWI parking lot, with belays and line dra...
On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location.

Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed. (WI3ish, ~150 ft.)

Pitch Two: Climb very thin ice and rock up a vertical step to get to the beautiful smear dripping down the corner. Climb the thin, engaging, slightly run out smear up to a sheltered alcove. A few stubbies can be placed toward the top of the pitch, and you can get some rock gear at the bottom. Save a #3 camalot, for the belay. A new #4 or an old 3.5 would work even better. An AMAZING pitch - great exposure and position! Same as pitch one: in thicker conditions this pitch would offer very solild pro. (WI 4+, M6 R, ~100 ft.)

Pitch Three: Climb a few feet down and right and make some balancy mixed moves to reach the hanging smear. Commit to the vertical ice and climb over a steep bulge to the top. We left a few slings around a bush on top of the buttress. It's not very sustained, but bouldery. (WI 5, M6 ~100 ft.)

Pitch Three variation: From the belay, climb straight up and over an overhanging rock step with a few patches of ice and frozen moss. M6.

Descent: make two double rope raps back to the base of the route.


Location 

Located high up on the Black Peeler Buttress, in the vicinity of Salt Lake Syndrome. We spotted the line from GWI parking lot. If it's in, you can't miss it from the road, it's very striking.


Protection 

Set of cams from #.4 to #3 Camalots, stubby ice screws, 5 pins. Two 60 meter ropes.



Photos of All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! Slideshow Add Photo
The third pitch...
The third pitch...
Chris leading the second pitch
Chris leading the second pitch
Rick on pitch two
Rick on pitch two
higher on the 2nd pitch
higher on the 2nd pitch
Third pitch
Third pitch
Comments on All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! Add Comment
Show which comments
By bsmoot
Jan 28, 2008

Very cool, Thanks for posting up Chris.

By zoso
Nov 2, 2009

Very PROUD line. And one of the best names for a route EVAR!