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All my Friends are Aliens
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd |
Page Views: | 2,357 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Aug 4, 2014 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
I started cleaning this route in a driving blizzard late winter 2014 and it took some excavating to clear loose flakes.
Start in shallow left facing corner/seam, the crux comes low and is a balance step up over to hold on arete, especially hard if you are under 6' tall, some fun moves next, and then follow left traversing undercling until possible to go up toward tree. Continue up crack system, trending left then right to anchor at 100 ft. There is descent climbing for 20' above there, and 25' of trees and dirt above that, if you want to go up to the Blue Tile Lounge.
Alternate start in offwidth on the left that requires slab crossing which will add a bolt soon.
Start in shallow left facing corner/seam, the crux comes low and is a balance step up over to hold on arete, especially hard if you are under 6' tall, some fun moves next, and then follow left traversing undercling until possible to go up toward tree. Continue up crack system, trending left then right to anchor at 100 ft. There is descent climbing for 20' above there, and 25' of trees and dirt above that, if you want to go up to the Blue Tile Lounge.
Alternate start in offwidth on the left that requires slab crossing which will add a bolt soon.
Location
Currently the furthest route left on the main wall. There is a slab with an off width crack on the left, and this goes up the seam on the right.
Protection
standard rack to 2". extra in finger sizes.Brass nuts could be used in lower seam. Green Alien or the exact size protects the starting crux move. Brass nuts above this move, or blue Alien. Extra finger size Aliens for many discontinuous cracks on upper half Bolted anchor with rap chains at top.
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