Go up via some very bad holds to a decent edge, and, if you're feeling brave, up the manky slab above to top out the boulder. I have not sent, only tried this route a few times, so I don't know exactly how hard it is, but the holds you end up deadhanging off of definitely suck, so Banks' grade seems reasonable. Anyway, this route has some of the weirdest movement I've ever experienced. Fun to work on.
To the right of Mr Witty. Sit start on the left side of the cave, left hand on the large undercling hueco and right on the arete feature of the cave.
One pad is sufficient if you plan on stepping off after the difficult portion. If you want to top out, I'd suggest a spot or two and a few more pads.
Per the sequence in the climbing film Soul Cal, this route clocks in at V7/8. There is absolutely no way it is V9. There are a number of different sequences that MIGHT be harder and approach such a grade, but the current problem (two small crimps followed by a deadpoint to a small side-pull) is simply challenging, not epic. I say this not to toot my horn, but me and my buddy almost on-sighted the problem (again, per the Soul Cal beta), and we do not typically on-sight V9. Or V8.
I'm completely willing to admit we are doing it wrong. Anyone? Anyone?
Andy, nitpicking here, but you just hit on one of my bouldering pet peeves, and that is: "almost onsighting"....which is what? Oh right, it's "NOT onsighting", so if you "typically don't onsight V8 or V9", then you still don't. The only thing that 2nd try means is that you didn't onsight it.
Secondly, yes, you were doing it wrong. "Soul Cal" is rife with mis-information (Mister Witty V11? Serious as A Deacon V3? The list goes on...). "All Mod Cons" goes STRAIGHT up the left side. Heading out right to use huge holds on Standing on the Corner is not on. , I tried to be clear about this in O11 and obviously "All Mods" is not a classic because it's forcing the line (I think I gave it 1 star??), but early ascentionists all told me I was super sandbagging at V9, and that was when the upper hold on the slab was bigger. This video of Paul is correct, NOT reaching out to that big hold out right like the girl did in his video.
Actually, you gave it two stars Bob. Ha, just nitpicking. ;)
This thing is still rejecting me. Can't get that high heel beta to work (yet), but I've been trying and getting close to the 'big move' way. Rain all this week, so pure training right now, but once things dry up I'm attacking this and Break On Through.
I'll edit this worthless comment once I do some more work. Edit: Getting... Closer..... Edit2: Finally got this thing, took me forever... Felt great once it goes though. Good fun+ All Mod Cons
. Curious if this beta is 'kosher' Did it almost the same as Paul, except I hold the initial right heel hook and then cross left leg through for a toe hoe, before bringing the right up and over for the heel. Also, the lower hold on the slab he uses was gone, but I was able to reach a higher one...