Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Soot Patrol Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Mod Cons 
Mr Witty 
Soot Patrol 
Standing On The Corner Watching All The Girls Go By 
Watch the Dog 

All Mod Cons 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,166
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Start move of All mod

Description 

Go up via some very bad holds to a decent edge, and, if you're feeling brave, up the manky slab above to top out the boulder.
I have not sent, only tried this route a few times, so I don't know exactly how hard it is, but the holds you end up deadhanging off of definitely suck, so Banks' grade seems reasonable.
Anyway, this route has some of the weirdest movement I've ever experienced.
Fun to work on.

Location 

To the right of Mr Witty. Sit start on the left side of the cave, left hand on the large undercling hueco and right on the arete feature of the cave.

Protection 

One pad is sufficient if you plan on stepping off after the difficult portion. If you want to top out, I'd suggest a spot or two and a few more pads.


Photos of All Mod Cons Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Patterson encountering the crimps.
Andy Patterson encountering the crimps.
The last hard move.
The last hard move.
The crux
The crux

Comments on All Mod Cons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Aug 23, 2010

Here is a video of Paul Dusatko sending this climb. Not the best quality.


By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 23, 2010

Per the sequence in the climbing film Soul Cal, this route clocks in at V7/8. There is absolutely no way it is V9. There are a number of different sequences that MIGHT be harder and approach such a grade, but the current problem (two small crimps followed by a deadpoint to a small side-pull) is simply challenging, not epic. I say this not to toot my horn, but me and my buddy almost on-sighted the problem (again, per the Soul Cal beta), and we do not typically on-sight V9. Or V8.

I'm completely willing to admit we are doing it wrong. Anyone? Anyone?
By Bob Banks
Aug 24, 2010

Andy, nitpicking here, but you just hit on one of my bouldering pet peeves, and that is: "almost onsighting"....which is what? Oh right, it's "NOT onsighting", so if you "typically don't onsight V8 or V9", then you still don't. The only thing that 2nd try means is that you didn't onsight it.

Secondly, yes, you were doing it wrong. "Soul Cal" is rife with mis-information (Mister Witty V11? Serious as A Deacon V3? The list goes on...). "All Mod Cons" goes STRAIGHT up the left side. Heading out right to use huge holds on Standing on the Corner is not on. , I tried to be clear about this in O11 and obviously "All Mods" is not a classic because it's forcing the line (I think I gave it 1 star??), but early ascentionists all told me I was super sandbagging at V9, and that was when the upper hold on the slab was bigger. This video of Paul is correct, NOT reaching out to that big hold out right like the girl did in his video.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 24, 2010

Okay, Bob hath spoken.

You're right. Perhaps I should have said "I almost did it first try". Either way, thanks for clearing up the confusion.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 27, 2012

As I recall in Paul's vid the girl uses the big hold on Standing on the Corner... which it looks like Andy is going to in the pic here. Significantly easier!
By Tim King
Dec 2, 2012
rating: V9 7C

Actually, you gave it two stars Bob. Ha, just nitpicking. ;)

This thing is still rejecting me. Can't get that high heel beta to work (yet), but I've been trying and getting close to the 'big move' way. Rain all this week, so pure training right now, but once things dry up I'm attacking this and Break On Through.

I'll edit this worthless comment once I do some more work.
Edit: Getting... Closer.....
Edit2: Finally got this thing, took me forever... Felt great once it goes though. Good fun+
All Mod Cons
.
Curious if this beta is 'kosher'
Did it almost the same as Paul, except I hold the initial right heel hook and then cross left leg through for a toe hoe, before bringing the right up and over for the heel.
Also, the lower hold on the slab he uses was gone, but I was able to reach a higher one...
By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Apr 24, 2013

Forcing the line or not, I'd say the movement on this problem is classic. Cool bumps through unique edges, subtle footwork, a hard dead-point and an exciting technical (and tall) slab top-out.

If the right side of the boulder fell off it would get 5 stars for sure, as is it's still awesome.
By Bob Banks
May 22, 2013

Nice job Tim. Looks about as kosher as it could possibly get.