All Day Sucker  5.8

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Jun 23, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Scanned photo. Craig near the standard finish.

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Description 

At the right of the south-facing corner move up until on top of staircase of holds (5-6 but very awkward boulder problem) move up (5-8) or across (easier) left into the large corner. Exhilarating moves and then there is a rest in the corner. Go up the corner moderate(5-5) and move onto the outside of it to traverse right 10ft on the wall to find pin protection in a crack. Continue up crack (harder, 5-7) or move back left to climb up the outside of the corner until able to go right again (or go back left into the corner, easier), then move back right to crack (to follow this crack (5-7) 20+ft sustained it will end at a horizontal crack to traverse right (end of traverse was protected by large lost arrow but I removed it) regardless of the pin or small cam will work, 2nd will have do to 20+ft down climb (5-4) to Quartet's left side terraced garden or may be belayed until able to untie at the belay and pull rope through a biner at last placement of protection. If crack isn't followed, move right on (5-6) off balanced nervy ramp to Quartet Garden.
The rock on this pitch doesn't get any better than this on Cannon. Very airy and exposed for a base pitch climb. On the terraced garden platform there are two solid belays. I utilized both because the rappel station is 15ft or so higher than the lower belay station (trad gear) needed for keeping close to the climber seconding this climb especially the (5-6) ramp traverse.

Location 

Left of the Quartet dike. Just to right of Fugue start is a steep inclining staircase of 12+ft of boulder moves (5-6). Look for the bad bolt placement (I intend on sawing it off and replacing it and there are 2 soft iron shallow placement pins and 1 stuck stopper in a small pocket crack in the rock wall. You'd have to be blind to not see all this junk. It should be cleaned up, someday.

Protection 

Trad rack, small to medium stoppers and medium hexes, friends or tri-cams. Before the crux is a soft iron hardly in pin above a ridiculously badly placed bolt (the hole's deep but it got stuck during placement) and a descent wire nut in a pocket within reach. It looks like inexperienced climber's crap and that sucks, back up the stopper with another one and it'll be truck. Pin rappel anchor.

Photos of All Day Sucker Slideshow

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The corner and higher up right some of the crack f...	Scanned photo of Craig Young.	Scanned photo of Craig on the crack face section.
BETA PHOTO: The important half of the line up the pitch.