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Green Adjective Gully
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All Chalk And No Action 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ruckman
Page Views: 5,904
Submitted By: Erik S. Gillis on Sep 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Peter on All Chalk and No Action

Description 

Awewsome route!!! It is located just to the left of where touch up and Gordon's Hangover starts. Some people start in the actual corner of Gordons and others start on the face. I did it starting on the face and thought it is much more classic that way. The Landing is good if you blow before the first bolt and the moves are really cool. After the third bolt is clipped it eases up a lot, although it still can be pumpy(or it least it was for me), at the top. For only a 60ft route it gets some good exposure. All in all well worth the hike! Good luck!


Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. (Same as Touch Up.)



Photos of All Chalk And No Action Slideshow Add Photo
Peter finishing up the route.
Peter finishing up the route.
All Chalk
All Chalk
last move to the third bolt, after that it is all pretty straightforward.
last move to the third bolt, after that it is all ...
pulling the cruxy start
pulling the cruxy start
Comments on All Chalk And No Action Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 8, 2014
By ASENDR
Jan 8, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

face climbing in little cottonwood doesn't get any better than this. 5 starz

By sgreen
From: salt lake city, ut
Jun 6, 2007

pulled a huge piece of rock of this route yesterday. It is above the crux so it won't change the rating I believe. It is up by the third bolt, maybe a little above it, still some pretty suspect rock up there. Makes me wonder about the quality of the rock that some of those older bolts are in.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 27, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d!

By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008

Beautiful line! Well worth the hike up.

By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 19, 2009

My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful location...it does not get much better.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 10, 2009

It gets a lot better.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Surprisingly chossy for such a classic with a number of loose holds that are on their way out... Starting in the corner seems silly when there are plenty of holds on the face. The crux features sharp crimps, polished feet and long reaches.
Anchors, upper 2 bolts and 3rd hanger replaced on 10/23/09, the rest of them are sound. Whip away!

By Spencer Daniels
From: Sandy,utah
Jul 5, 2012

I have been spotting this route out this season. Looks like a great route!

By Ryan Arnold
Aug 18, 2012

While on it today, I noticed the hanger was almost pulled off the second bolt. I tightened the screw back down with my fingers, but it didn't give me much confidence... especially since the crux is at and just above that bolt.

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 8, 2014

Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold.