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Houser Gully
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All Booked Up 

All Booked Up 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hank Levine & Dag Kolsrud 1978
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: Will S on Apr 9, 2007
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Sean mellowing under All Booked Up.

Description 

This very nice looking crack in a shallow right facing corner quickly opens up from fingers in pods to a perfect handcrack to the top. The approach has to be the only reason this gets no stars in the guides. If this were in the campground it would get done 10x per day. While short, the approach is tricky. Chimney moves can help down low where the corner is deeper and almost trough-like.


Location 

Getting to this route may be the true crux. You can approach from the Houser Buttress or from Solosby. Facing Houser Buttress, there is a boulder filled gully system to the right of Dodo's Delight, about 150' right of Houser Buttress itself. Scramble, tunnel, and boulder hop up this gully. As it narrows into a corridor, keep your eye on the left side (north facing walls) looking for a face with two distinct crack lines about 50' apart. Midway between them is a fingercrack/seam that ends about 25' shy of the top. The route is an obvious, gorgeous looking handcrack that starts as small pods in the back of a trough and quickly changes to perfect hands in a shallow/narrowing right facing corner.

Another way to approach is from Solosby Wall. This gully system is almost directly behind Solosby. Facing Latin Swing, walk out the left end of the corridor and up onto the flat area just after the corridor ends. Scramble down and left on the path of least resistance (somewhat tricky). The route is clearly visible early in the descent as a straight-up handcrack.


Protection 

Fingers to hands with an emphasis on hands.



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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 10, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Awkward start, climb gets easier one progresses upwards. Heck of an approach up Houser Gully!

By andre kovacs
From: san diego, ca
Jan 28, 2011

Yeah the approach for this climb is pretty brutal but pays off with some good flaring chimmney moves to a final hand crack to the topout.

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jan 28, 2014

Having previously done the heinous scramble up from Houser's Gully and from inside RHV via the left end of Solosby Wall, the easiest way turned out to be via the approach for Little Fun Crags. Take the outside trail from RHV parking toward Houser Buttress. Just beyond the point downslope from Little Fun Crags, find a faint but decent trail passing the right side of a big boulder. After shortly going up a boulder stack with cairn, continue stepping up the steep hillside, with no need to tunnel. Near the top, instead of veering right toward the base of Little Fun Crags, continue angling left instead, which would lead to the topside of the same gully one would first come out to from the left end of Solosby east face. The gully you want is actually the next one further west. Go over the high wall separating the two gullies at an easy spot with many horizontal steps. Once atop this, with The Albatross and All Booked Up in view, downclimb to skier's right and across to the base of All Booked Up.

FYI, had also tried to egress out the top end of the All Booked Up gully, thinking that might be an easier way to get through to the inner RHV loop and out. Not so. That being a different gully than the one via the front of Solosby east face, it actually led to the backside of Solosby and Tumbling Rainbow, through a labyrinth of huge boulder hopping and deep cavernous tunneling. Adventurous fun, but took over an hour (not kidding) to eventually wander around to the northern downslope past Roberts Crack. In hindsight, best to reverse the aforementioned easiest approach to re-connect to the faint trail of Little Fun Crags and back down to the outside trail and RHV parking.