Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cave Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Banged Up 
Leaves of grass 
Roofer Madness 

All Banged Up 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Michael Hartrich 1982
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: matthew ritter on May 10, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The roof

Description 

Unprotected boulder moves on pretty good kitty litter will get you to the base of the roof. From here the granite is splitter. Get yourself situated and get some gear. A 3.5 with a draw works well here. From a bomber right hand undercling hand jam reach out and place a .75 cam. You could place bigger gear but it would have to go in the jams.

Jam some tight hand jams before getting to a sinker around the lip. Place another .75 in the narrowest section below the lip. Find the foot jams and keep bumping those jams up the now hand sized crack.

Continue to the top on a licheny crack or lower off from above the lip.


Location 

Just left of Roofer's Madness


Protection 

cams. i used a 3.5 a 3 would work. a couple .75s. for the roof

a couple pieces for the upper crack

the route could use a hex anchor just above lip






Comments on All Banged Up Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthew ritter
May 10, 2012

AKA "Gang Bang" reportedly due to the fact that it took many attempts from many attemptees before Hartrich finished the climb.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 10, 2012

also looks soooooooo good