5.14 has arrived at Ibex. I have NOT done this route, but am hoping, with its addition here, it will spark more interest in hard routes at Ibex and better beta will be added by those doing them. Huge Kudos to Kemple and Linder for putting up such a striking line on the right corner of the Shadow Buttress. This is apparently already on film and available for viewing from one of Mike Call's climbing DVDs....watch it!
Access to the line is by climbing past the first pitch of Absorption and belaying just above the prominent Mormon Tea bush. Then, for the business, cutting loose out left up the grey wall following bolts through the overhanging brown streaks.
Starts to the left of Absorption on the right arete of Shadow Buttress ascending the improbable overhanging brown streaks about 50m around the corner to the right of Nose Shadow.
Bolts.....lot's of them.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Mar 14, 2008
I saw the fixed line and gear when this line was being equipped. Really overhanging stuff. Looked hard then, still sounds hard to me...
|By Jonathan Siegrist|
From: his truck
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.14b 8c 33 X+ E9 7b
A total classic. 10 stars. Movement, position, and holds that you will remember for a lifetime. Highly recommended. Hard if you're short.
Okay now for some very valuable beta. Do not climb the first pitch of Absorption to access the belay - climb the first 2 pitches of the 11 a/b to the right, respectively 5.9 and 10b, at the end of the second pitch look far left and traverse over to the anchor that's 10 feet right of the Mormon Tea bush. You can easily combine these two pitches with slings on bolts. It's way faster and more enjoyable. You can also rap to the ground with an 80 meter rope from here, although it will take a little sketchyness, but it's worth it to save an extra rap.
But first, before you even get that far, hike around back and rap the route. You will need to find the anchors to the neighboring 12a crack first in order to rap down, then rap and trend climbers left until you find a set of anchors with just quicklinks. You will need an 80m rope to get down. MAYBE a 70 will get you there with maximum rope stretch and sketchy bullshit (i.e. not recommended). Rap the route and tick holds, hang draws, etc. Be prepared for 10-15 (20?) feet between bolts, and zero chalk.
It's not your average sport climb, the hangout, the landscape, the rock - it's different and special! Do this route. It will make you a happier person. It worked for me!