Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: John Hoffman, Victor Marcus, Max Jones
Page Views: 2,133 total · 15/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on May 31, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is located on the South face of The Babylon Crag. It is a little ways up a gully and at close range reveals a very parallel, almost Indian Creek quality crack (for the first 15' or so, anyway), that gradually widens from rattly fingers to wide hands in the space of 25 feet. The steadily overhanging face gives way to a scooped ledge that continues up a perfect low-angle hand crack to a horn. It felt pretty sandbagged at the grade to me, so perhaps a more -ahem- modern consensus awaits.

It now continues into a bolted finish that is described in a neighboring route description.

Location Suggest change

South face, up the hill from Far East.

Protection Suggest change

A finger cam or two, singles to 1" and doubles in 2" - 3" Camalots will work. The anchor I made consisted of a shoulder length sling on the horn and a 2" Camalot. A double shoulder length sling would allow tying off a lot bigger chunk of the horn.

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