|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Hoffman, Victor Marcus, Max Jones|
|Submitted By:||Colonel Mustard on Jun 1, 2012|
|Comments on All American Hand Crack||Add Comment|
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Jun 10, 2012
|One of The Best Climbs I've ever done at Babylon!|
By Patrick Mulligan
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Headed out here after reading both the praise in the new guidebook and several comments from folks calling the route the best ever. After a hard off finger start solid overhanging jams end at the ledge after about 25'. The rest of the climb is far easier although one wishes it far longer. I'd believe the route is the best at the crag but thought the hype was undeserved.
After sitting on this one for a while I do think this is a beautiful crack. I still question it being listed in many "best crack in tahoe" lists, but its a great climb. I left a nice heavy duty rap ring hung off of a nice 7mm cord so getting down, while still of a horn is a much easier proposition.
I also plan on adding a bolt to the face above so one could link the top of the slab to the broken cracks leading to the top in a single pitch.
By Colonel Mustard
Jun 17, 2012
|I hope I didn't overhype it, Patrick! I thought it was a good climb, but certainly not great. Like Etahoe said, it is the best climb we got on at Babylon though!|