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South Rim Routes
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Alimony 
Astro Dog 
Black In Action 
Black Shadow Arete 
Black Snake 
Blackjack 
Crystal Vision 
Dark Star 
Dragon Rider 
El Padre 
Falcon Wall 
Flakes, The 
Flapjack 
Ground Control to Major Tom 
Last Payment 
North Shore 
Pent Up 
Quota, The 
Tague Yer Time 

Alimony 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Season: Summer
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on May 8, 2011
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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an old school, wide route.

P1: Climb various OW sizes up the left side of a giant pillar. Belay on top of pillar. 5.9, 120 feet.

P2: Head straight up wide splitter to roof. 5.10+, 60'.

P2 variation: Trend right up dicey rock to 5.9 bulge. Pull over steepness, and climb straight up face, moving back left at small ledge. Belay wedged behind big flakes.

P3: Chimney to top. 5.7+, 100'.

P3 variation: Start chimney but move out left to 5.9 OW.

This is a good route, but if you are only doing one route on the Alimony Wall, Last Payment is much better. This wall is conducive to link-ups.


Location 

Park at Painted Wall Overlook. Scout the route from the overlook. Walk 400 yards down road and cut into a narrow gully. You're in the right place if you walk under a giant chockstone. The first pitch is a long, varied OW that is obvious.


Protection 

Standard rack. Singles in #4, 5, 6 cams is more than enough.



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