Aliens Ate My Penis  5.11b/c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Anonymous Coward on Aug 9, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route is approximately 1000 feet right (west) of the cactus Rose Wall proper. As you hike along the trail west of CRW, you will pass approximately 4 scattered routes and then come to a short wall that is facing towards the approximate east. This wall is slightly pinkish and there are 3 routes on the wall. One goes up the left/middle face, two goes up the right hand margin to a small roof, three starts around the right side and goes straight through the roof. 'Aliens Ate My Penis' is route one, the leftmost of the three.

This route is like a tall bolted boulder problem. The opening moves give you a taste of what the entire route is like - slightly overhanging with many small holds to choose from. There are several really good pockets on this route, but it takes patience or luck to get them all. Many of the holds are quite sharp. I actually thought that taking the pain was the biggest crux, given that my fingers are kind of soft right now. All in all, a fun route that gives strenuous, technical climbing.

Either lower off of the last bolt, or top out and scramble over the little fin and down the chimney to the west.

Protection 

3 bolts, lower off of 3rd bolt or top out and hike down the deep gully to the west.