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Alienist 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Sills and Janice Harnak
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: bert honea on Jun 2, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

We tried this route last weekend based on the recommendation of new guidebook. It takes the line just left of Topaz. The first 30 feet are awkward trad and then very thin face climbing past several (7?) bolts lead to a belay just left of Topaz first anchor. Having done several 10 and 11a routes earlier we felt the 10b rating was pretty conservative - more like 10+. Harder than Black Wave for sure (11a). Other thoughts?

An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on Topaz.

Per Dave Holliday:
Pitch 2: 9+; move up and left from the anchor atop the first pitch into a groove. Stem it with a hand and fist crack on the right and a finger crack on the left. Get tucked under a small roof and pull up through it via a thin-hand to hand crack (crux of pitch). Continue on easier terrain to a bolted anchor. (Gear to a #4 Camalot.)

Pitch 3: 10; from the anchor, continue up and left to a right-facing corner. This pitch is steep and strenuous, but good gear is available throughout. Exit through a slot sort of thing to a bolted rappel anchor. (Gear to a #4 Friend or so.)


Location 

This is located just left of Topaz slab. The start is a small, broken corner. Look for a rightward-trending line of bolts about 40 feet up.


Protection 

Trad first 30 feet, then bolts. Good anchors.



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By Tom Hanson
Jun 3, 2008

First ascent of Alienist by Scott Sills and Janice Harnak.

By kevin fox
From: parker
Jul 25, 2009

Fun route but felt harder than 10b.

By DICK HURTZ
Jul 25, 2009

Try climbing Scott's routes at Thrillseekers. You learn to ignore the posted grade and just evaluate the holds and guess if it's in your range.

By Bill Farrand
Jun 10, 2013

Climbed pitch 1 of this route yesterday, and it really needs someone to go and take a wire brush to it. There were a lot of lichens over some of the face climbing parts, so that added to my anxiety level as a leader. The bolts also seem positioned way off to the right. I think calling this 10c instead of 10b would be appropriate. Otherwise, it was a good pitch.