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Routes in The Headstone
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[Redacted] T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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[Redacted] S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Haus Flake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Io S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Sills and Janice Harnak |
| Page Views: | 2,605 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | bert honea on Jun 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
We tried this route last weekend based on the recommendation of new guidebook. It takes the line just left of Topaz. The first 30 feet are awkward trad and then very thin face climbing past several (7?) bolts lead to a belay just left of Topaz first anchor. Having done several 10 and 11a routes earlier we felt the 10b rating was pretty conservative - more like 10+. Harder than Black Wave for sure (11a). Other thoughts?
An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on Topaz.
Per Dave Holliday:
Pitch 2: 9+; move up and left from the anchor atop the first pitch into a groove. Stem it with a hand and fist crack on the right and a finger crack on the left. Get tucked under a small roof and pull up through it via a thin-hand to hand crack (crux of pitch). Continue on easier terrain to a bolted anchor. (Gear to a #4 Camalot.)
Pitch 3: 10; from the anchor, continue up and left to a right-facing corner. This pitch is steep and strenuous, but good gear is available throughout. Exit through a slot sort of thing to a bolted rappel anchor. (Gear to a #4 Friend or so.)
An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on Topaz.
Per Dave Holliday:
Pitch 2: 9+; move up and left from the anchor atop the first pitch into a groove. Stem it with a hand and fist crack on the right and a finger crack on the left. Get tucked under a small roof and pull up through it via a thin-hand to hand crack (crux of pitch). Continue on easier terrain to a bolted anchor. (Gear to a #4 Camalot.)
Pitch 3: 10; from the anchor, continue up and left to a right-facing corner. This pitch is steep and strenuous, but good gear is available throughout. Exit through a slot sort of thing to a bolted rappel anchor. (Gear to a #4 Friend or so.)
Location
This is located just left of Topaz slab. The start is a small, broken corner. Look for a rightward-trending line of bolts about 40 feet up.
5 Comments