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We tried this route last weekend based on the recommendation of new guidebook. It takes the line just left of Topaz. The first 30 feet are awkward trad and then very thin face climbing past several (7?) bolts lead to a belay just left of Topaz first anchor. Having done several 10 and 11a routes earlier we felt the 10b rating was pretty conservative - more like 10+. Harder than Black Wave for sure (11a). Other thoughts?
An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on Topaz.
Per Dave Holliday:
Pitch 2: 9+; move up and left from the anchor atop the first pitch into a groove. Stem it with a hand and fist crack on the right and a finger crack on the left. Get tucked under a small roof and pull up through it via a thin-hand to hand crack (crux of pitch). Continue on easier terrain to a bolted anchor. (Gear to a #4 Camalot.)
Pitch 3: 10; from the anchor, continue up and left to a right-facing corner. This pitch is steep and strenuous, but good gear is available throughout. Exit through a slot sort of thing to a bolted rappel anchor. (Gear to a #4 Friend or so.)
This is located just left of Topaz slab. The start is a small, broken corner. Look for a rightward-trending line of bolts about 40 feet up.
Trad first 30 feet, then bolts. Good anchors.
|By Tom Hanson|
Jun 3, 2008
First ascent of Alienist by Scott Sills and Janice Harnak
|By kevin fox|
Jul 25, 2009
fun route but felt harder than 10b.
|By DICK HURTZ|
Jul 25, 2009
Try climbing Scott's routes at Thrillseekers. You learn to ignore the posted grade and just evaluate the holds and guess if its in your range