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Alien 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 26, 2007

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Micah protects with a cam before finishing the ove...
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route likely has one of the finest 5.9 cruxes anywhere! Just wish the rest of the route was as good as the top! Rope up at the foot of the blocks that lie under a roof and a sketchy looking boulder that looks like it is slightly detached from the rest of the formation (actually, this is where I placed my first piece of pro, as sketchy as the block looked it didn't appear that it was going anywhere and I am sure that I am not the first who has been on it). Once gaining the blocks at the base of the climb, you can slide a #3 Camelot up and right. To your left is a flared crack that does not accept pro well. The next few moves, though not difficult, felt uneasy to me because of the skecho block. Continue up a good crack with excellent pro and through a bulge. Once gaining the bulge you will get to a slightly overhung, smooth headwall with a beautiful crack running through its center. At first glance it appears more difficult than 5.9 but face holds, good position within the crack, and jugs continue to emerge until you meet the bolt anchors.


Location 

At the southeast end of west rock, there is a high pillar that is slightly detached from the rest of the formation. The route starts behind two large pine trees (yes, I know, almost every route here starts behind pine trees!). Look for a stack of blocks below a small roof and a prominent crack above.


Protection 

Single set of Camalots from 0.4 to #3, with a set of nuts, is sufficient. The #3 was placed down low and save the #2 for the top. Bolt anchors.



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Mid pitch before the good parts.
Mid pitch before the good parts.
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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 26, 2007

At the top of this route, there are two bolts. One has chains on it while the other has webbing connected to a rap ring to equalize the rappel. The webbing appeared that it needed to be replaced either with new webbing or a chain to match the other side. I will attempt to do this the next time I get out there (if I remember), or if someone else gets to it first that would be great!

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Aug 27, 2007

Anthony,
How many links of chain does it need?
Mike

By Matt Price
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I just did this route yesterday, it was awesome just like the guidebook said! The old webbing was still there and we didn't have any to replace it :( The bolt with the webbing is a couple inches lower that the bolt with the chain. It would still need several links of chain ~6-7? Sorry I don't know exactly.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 11, 2007

Hmmm, that's a good question, I wish I had remembered to count those links. Sorry.

Tony

By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Golden, CO
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As of yesterday the anchor is in great shape with two bolts each holding good condition link chains. Thanks to those maintaining the routes.

By derek craig
Jul 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Felt 9+ on lead. If this route was taller it would a classic and probably graded harder...

By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Sep 1, 2013

There are a few wasps loitering about the route right now. Micah was stung while OSing this route yesterday. Fun route, always a good warmup.