This climb is found on a south-facing formation several hundred yards uphill from the Comic Book formation. From the base of that formation scramble up the rocky hillside past numerous giant boulders to reach this nice crack.
Climb the obvious straight-in crack which widens from fingers to fists. Descend by walking off to the climber's right.
A good climb but be aware that is has a bit of an approach; it's not very far up to the base but it is an arduous affair that is perhaps more worthwhile if the other routes in the area are done.
Gear to 3.5"
An up close view of the cliff to look for. White ...
Lisa Pritchett leading Alice in Wonderjam
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 12, 2003
Worth the hike.
Dec 13, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Always wanted to do this ( one of those not so "lost classics" ), but was deterred by the approach. Turned out to be a pain, but not that bad. I think my grade-o-meter is getting out of whack, 'cause this puppy seemed harder than 5.9 to me. Was sucker into descending more towards Box Canyon, which was a mini-canyoneering adventure (many dropped packs and slippery chimneys ).
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 24, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A ridiculously devious approach. Once we descended the correct "Rabbit Hole" we were, however, rewarded with a sweet crack route. The climb starts with technical thin stuff and widens to an off-width at the top.
The descent I used seemed to be about 5.1 downclimbing or so.
|By Jeremy Werlin|
Dec 12, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Very stiff at the grade, IMO. Bringing a #4 camalot for the top wide bit is a good idea. Belay at the first ledge when you top out. Approach is an adventure, but not crazy. Very cool little grotto.
Dec 20, 2013
Solid 3 stars, gets harder the higher you get, bring the C4 #4.