|Some areas require a guide.|
Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out.
The guidebook notes that this route is 105 feet. This is clearly not true as the mid mark of our rope was a good 15-20 feet up. Two ropes are required for the rappel.
Find the arete that is Malice In Bucketland, and head left about 30 feet or so. Right of Bitchin Chimney.
6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. I also used two green Camalots (could just as easily use one green 0.75 and one purple 0.5) and one medium nut on the top crack.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alice In Bucketland does climb the face 30' left of Malice in Bucketland but begins from the ground and around the corner from Malice.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The bolt anchor at the top of this route really needs another set of screw links or rap rings on the existing screw links. Currently they lay flat (parallel) to the rock so pulling your rope through them results in nasty coiling of the rope.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2013
The top anchor is very hard to spot- you will be 50+' from the last bolt over easy climbing. Aim for the tree and the bolts are on wall to left of tree. There are plenty of places in this top section to place cams or nuts and also places in harder climbing below where a small cam (alien) or nut would be useful.
|By Matthew D. Black|
Sep 7, 2013
I lead this climb today. It was very fun and the bolts were spaced apart just enough to get a thrill out of it. You do not need trad gear or slings. Bolted all the way up to a section of 5.6 climbing in which the bolts stop. You climb on this easy climbing quite a ways until you find the anchors up on a wall next to a tree. Nothing was chossy.