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Alexander's Chimney 

WI4 M4

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus: WI4 M4 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: early fall and late sprin
Page Views: 21,667
Submitted By: Mark Hammond on Oct 11, 2001

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Mike Keegan leading the Chockstone pitch September...

Description 

Start up Lamb's Slide until beneath obvious chimney, which starts up above you. Broken rock leads to start of ice, near start of chimney, belay here. A long pitch of mostly ice leads to a fixed belay on the left. Way fun with a steep section or two. Next pitch is easy, set a belay under giant chockstone. Ice and mixed (M4) terrain leads under chockstone and up more ice above, another fun pitch. Three options to lead to Broadway according to guidebook. Going right is listed as easiest, but loose. We rapped from the end of the ice. Great setting, great views and fun climbing. Hard persons would undoubtably continue up, perhaps linking to summit route. Note: Beware rockfall in Lamb's Slide.


Protection 

2 ropes if rapping. Light rock rack to 3.5 Friend, ice screws including short. Pins not needed on my ascent.


Descent 

You can traverse off to Lamb's Slide (left) if you reach Broadway.

There are many rappel options. 1) You can rap from up & L of the route on Broadway. It's 200' to 5). 2) There is a rappel station 40' below Broadway off & R of the chimney itself (may be buried in ice/snow). 3) In the chimney, there is a rap station about 40' below Broadway (slightly L). Note, this is 215' from 6). 4) There is another rap station about 30' above the chockstone (slightly L). 5) There is a less-than-inspiring rap station just below the chockstone (1 ring). 6) There a rap station on the R (slings, I-pin, 2 wires) 200' off Lamb's Slide. 7) There is another rap station about 140' above Lamb's Slide.



Photos of Alexander's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Hannig on the 1st pitch.
Mike Hannig on the 1st pitch.
Scratching for pick holds above the crux. Nate Erickson. April, 2012.
Scratching for pick holds above the crux. Nate Eri...
Chris on the 2nd pitch, just below start of the crux chimney.  We took the left-most right-facing dihedral system above for our 4th pitch to Broadway.
Chris on the 2nd pitch, just below start of the cr...
Christa has just crossed manky ice and is approaching the difficult move onto rock ledge about ten feet above her.
Christa has just crossed manky ice and is approach...
As always, check the quality of the anchors before using.  <br /> <br />Double ropes can get you off and to Lamb's Slide quickly. <br /> <br />Photo stolen from Leo Paik's photo in the Upper East Wall section.
BETA PHOTO: As always, check the quality of the anchors before...
Just another angle of Alexander's Chimney. Oct. 13, 2007
BETA PHOTO: Just another angle of Alexander's Chimney. Oct. 13...
Christa traverses snow on fifth pitch to rap anchor.
Christa traverses snow on fifth pitch to rap ancho...
Gordo playing with Venoms on P4.
Gordo playing with Venoms on P4.
The ice section above the chimney.  The obvious line to ascend is the ice (not well-visualized here) on the L-angling ramp.  In the lower right, you can see the rap above the chockstone.
BETA PHOTO: The ice section above the chimney. The obvious li...
Phil Wortman leading the crux pitch. Photo by Mark Sokol
Phil Wortman leading the crux pitch. Photo by Mark...
Andy Maguire pulling through the mixed crux above the chockstone.
Andy Maguire pulling through the mixed crux above ...
Crux of Alexander's in lean conditions.
Crux of Alexander's in lean conditions.
Christa leads up the second pitch. The chockstone is visible above.
Christa leads up the second pitch. The chockstone ...
Scott Matz on pitch 2.
Scott Matz on pitch 2.
Phil Wortmann on the crux pitch without any ice to climb on!
Phil Wortmann on the crux pitch without any ice to...
Christa on the third pitch exiting thin ice just above the chockstone.
Christa on the third pitch exiting thin ice just a...
Christa nearing the top of the third pitch.
Christa nearing the top of the third pitch.
Mark Sokol on the easy second pitch.
Mark Sokol on the easy second pitch.
Just before we bailed on P1, full conditions Oct 24th, 09'. The spindrift above my head would not let up!
Just before we bailed on P1, full conditions Oct 2...
Rick following the 1st pitch.
Rick following the 1st pitch.
Myself leading the mixed crux of the route with no ice.
Myself leading the mixed crux of the route with no...
Scott Matz at the top of P3.
Scott Matz at the top of P3.
Looking back on a great route. 12.8.02.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back on a great route. 12.8.02.
Leading P1 of Alexander's Chimney.
Leading P1 of Alexander's Chimney.
Nate Erickson leading above the chimney. On April 29, 2012, there was barely any ice on the route.
Nate Erickson leading above the chimney. On April ...
1st Pitch of Alexander's with The Diamond in the background.
BETA PHOTO: 1st Pitch of Alexander's with The Diamond in the b...
Looking down from top of P4. Brian Verhulst climbing.
Looking down from top of P4. Brian Verhulst climbi...
Mike Amato leading the first pitch.
Mike Amato leading the first pitch.
Conditions on Alexanders as of 9-28-08.
BETA PHOTO: Conditions on Alexanders as of 9-28-08.
Scott M. emerging from under the chockstone.
Scott M. emerging from under the chockstone.
Comments on Alexander's Chimney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 30, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 19, 2002

There is a huge death block on the traverse right above the ice. Be careful. Make sure your belayer is not below it. It's been yarded on probably for years. Also, you can go straight up instead of the traverse right. It's hard.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2002

Getting to Broadway at the top of this route is not obvious, I think we went right past the death block. It was a memorable pitch, I was leading this as the sun was setting with a full pack of bivy gear. Grab loose block, notice loose block., try to avoid grabbing loose block, almost made it, fall 20'. It's dark, climb back up, grab loose block, loose block shifts, crampons scratching for purchase, make it to Broadway! We then endured a horrible snowy bivy on Broadway, didn't sleep a wink, but got an incredible view of comet Hale-Bopp as the sky cleared just before sunrise.

Sorry for the rambling, this is an excellent winter route! Threading behind the chockstone is wild!

By Jake Norton
Oct 31, 2002

Did Alexander's one year ago yesterday (10/30/02)...Great route! Definitely beware of the "death block" on the right traverse to Broadway. Yes, it has probably been tugged at for years, but it IS loose, BIG, and scary. The rest of the route is excellent, although pitch 1 was very thin when we did it.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 18, 2002

[Alexander's] was still in as of last [Friday] but appeared to be thinner than a month ago. Went up the first 2 pitches and decided to bail rather than swim through snow to get under the block after the second pitch. By the time we walked out most of the snow above treeline had blown away so walking was easier. Smear was still in and fat, but has not grown since Oct.

By Paul Ivaska
Dec 9, 2002

Climbed Alexander's Chimney on 12-08-02. Had the entire route to ourselves. Ice is getting thin but still an enjoyable climb. Stubbies help, no pins were needed. Snow on Lamb's Slide was consolidated or had sections of loose powder. Wind slab conditions may exist in spots. First couple of pitches on the Smear look thin and desperate.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2003

Did this on Saturday. Definitely not fat right now. Expect much more snowy rock than ice. Still good though.

By Michael Amato
Jan 23, 2005

Climbed on 1/22/2005, a perfect day, one party in front of us using good style was the only other party we encountered. Ice is still in good condition, though a couple of thin sections on the first pitch (initial slabs), the third pitch (heading out above chockstone) and getting to the final rap anchor above. There was no ice on the Direct Finish, so we finished in two more pitches around right by traversing across questionable ice to a difficult maneuver onto a rock ledge with crappy pro, which Christa led. The final pitch went further right, then straight up snow to more rock and a traverse left along a snow ramp to the top rap anchor. We brought double 60m ropes and did three raps back to the Lamb's Slide. Great climb! Pro: 8 screws, a few stoppers and cams from blue Alien to #2 Camalot. Oh, and don't forget to get off trail in the dark and post-hole in waist-deep snow for two hours along Larkspur Creek to find the trail again.

By Jim Amidon
Dec 19, 2005

I climbed Alexander's in late November, my 3rd or 4th time on it. It was in the thinnest shape I have seen. A small runnel of ice on the first pitch, and practically no ice getting around the chockstone, no climbable ice after that as well. I would presume that it has not grown since then. Maybe next year....

By eric harvey
Oct 15, 2006

Kick ass day. Alexander's is still in. The ice is a bit detached in places, and the crux was thin (I think, haven't done it before) compared to other pictures.

By Stiles
From: the Mountains
Aug 7, 2007

This route constituted the single best day of climbing I've ever had.

By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Nov 5, 2011

As of yesterday, Alexander's is in and beautiful.

It was very thin above the chockstone, so we had to rap from there. Can't wait to go back and finish to Broadway and maybe another route to summit.

Double ropes would be very nice, but it can be rapped with a single. We had a 60m and did a little down-climbing on the second pitch. It was 5 raps for us. A 70m would have been fantastic (might still be a little bit of snow down-climbing to get to the top of the first pitch).

By Christian Mason
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 13, 2012

Climbed this route yesterday 4-12.

There were significant portions of ice on every pitch except the 4th.
Every pitch was excellent climbing as well.

We took the left version of the 4th pitch to Broadway, it was a rope stretcher past two fixed pins and some very thought-provoking mixed, felt to be about M5.

I also dropped a pink Fujitsu Fine Pic point and shoot camera by Chasm Lake. On the off chance that some finds it, my girlfriend would love to have it back.

By Christian Mason
From: Arvada, CO
May 5, 2012

Did the direct 4th pitch finish. Good gear and interesting, awkward climbing. Felt like sustained M5+ I'd recommend this finish over the left variant.

I've never done the right finish.

By Captain America
From: Longmont, CO
May 9, 2012

Climbed 4th pitch with Chris 5-4-12. I agree with Chris's comments. All dry tooling and a calf burner. Steep finish to Broadway ledge. Bring extra gear to sew it up, you'll be glad you did.

Chris moving up steep 4th pitch, direct variation, dry-tooling.
Chris moving up steep 4th pitch, direct variation, dry-tooling.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Dec 15, 2012
rating: WI4 M4

Fun stuff!

By LawHous
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 29, 2013

Anybody know what conditions are like on this route in mid-May?

By jjjust
Oct 28, 2013

We caught AC in good conditions on a great weather day.

By butterman
Mar 30, 2014

No ice as of 3/29/14 and 60mph winds with gust of 80+ or enough to throw a 200lb man a good 10 yards.

No ice, 3/29/14.
No ice, 3/29/14.