|The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
These are not really routes on their own but I think they should have their own description because so many people do just these sections with out continuing up. Also because there is so little at Cathedral that stays dry in the rain.
That being said, down and to the left of Recompense there is an alcove that has a roof above housing two nice short cracks ending at an anchor. They both stay dry in steady rain. The right leaning crack that starts on the left is the start to a demanding 5.11+ pitch (The Beast 666).
Alcove Left Crack: (5.10c) Pretty easy to pick it out. A really nice right leaning crack that is a little harder than it looks but it protects well and gets you a workout on a rainy day. If it is dry and you are strong, continue out the roof and in to the off width above at 5.11+.
Alcove Right Crack: (5.10a) This line doesn't look as perfect at first glance but is a technical good time and might work better for you if the more powerful left crack shut you down. Climb the corner with perfect pro and interesting moves to a perplexing finish on to a good stance. Same anchor as above route.
From the start of Refuse scramble up a couple ledges to a nice flat terrace and you can't miss them.
Both routes protect well with small to mid cams and some nuts.
|By Tim J.|
From: Loudon, NH
Jul 19, 2009
Beware the bumblebees that live in the left crack just below the pin. They look cuddly and cute but as I discovered today they do actually sting.
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I think the left crack is a .10b and the right is .9+PG
|By Anna C.|
Aug 4, 2010
I agree with a "PG" rating for the crack to the right: Technical 9+ with a committing step-over at the top. I have taken the fall on it and its not bad, just gets the heart rate up ...
From: Boston, MA
Jun 6, 2014
These cracks are not a bad option to do some cragging when its raining (lightly) at Cathedral. But don't expect the alcove overhang to be a ton of help in keeping the routes all that dry if the rain is steady. The left crack was nice and slimy after repeated May rain storms.
Fun little pitch, though. Great corner jamming and stemming with some strategic, small face holds right when you need them. Get some gear in early to protect yourself from hitting the giant ledge off the start. #2 cam is the biggest you reasonably need. Bigger cams can fit in at the top, but you'll likely be a bit pumped and the bolt anchor is not far off!