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Upper Broadway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Alcoa Presents 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,597
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Wikswo at the start.


From the large belay ledge at the top of Conns East Direct (also the start of Orangeaid) belay from anchors on right and climb crack with large aluminum piton in it (hence the name) to summit crest.


Std rack.

Photos of Alcoa Presents Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the summit
Looking down from the summit

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By K Baumgartner
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Phenomenal line that doesn't back off.

A new piton adds extra security about half way up. Found superb hand jams to top out the route to the belay.
By BigRed11
Sep 11, 2013

Really awesome route...exciting and sustained
By Andrew J 133
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 7, 2014

Great line, very well protected, don't bother clipping the alcoa piton, it's hammered in too far, got pumped trying to clip it. Get good gear below that point and then cruise through the cruxy/foot smear section before getting great gear above it...awesome climb
By Dan Mathews
May 27, 2014

While you can't clip the aluminum pin because the eye is into the crack, you can thread it with a thin dyneema sling. The next few moves are the crux for me and I actually find them more difficult than Triple S.
By Andrew G
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I had no intention of trying this route or any Seneca 5.8 for now, but just staring up at it from the anchors on Alcoa ledge, this line looked too good not to hop on. And it lived it up to expectations.
By Henry AB
Sep 8, 2015

If you forget to save a dyneema runner to thread through the big piton (as I did), there are a healthy number of small cam placements nearby.

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