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Alchemy 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: F.F.A. Jeff Wenger (some pre-placed gear), 8/06 F.F.A. placing all gear on lead, David Potter, 11/06
Page Views: 3,025
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
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SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rattly fingers/liebacking to a cruxy transition into fingers gets you to the rest. From there, stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy 5.10 climbing to the chains.

It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.


Location 

The crack to the right of Gold Rush


Protection 

Lots of thin gear up to BD .75. Small and medium stoppers protect the crux moves well if you can figure out how to hang out and place them.



Photos of Alchemy Slideshow Add Photo
starting up
starting up
Max Tepfer about to flail 'n bail. <br />Photo by Thomas Hornsby.
Max Tepfer about to flail 'n bail.
Photo by Thomas...
The whole line.  Alchemy cuts right at the horizontal and finishes in the upper dihedral.
The whole line. Alchemy cuts right at the horizon...
Comments on Alchemy Add Comment
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By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Jun 2, 2013

Best continuous quality for a 12- at Trout (that I've done so far). Med/Sm nuts are solid around the pod and/or lots of yellow Aliens/TCU's or equivalent (4-5) are nice. Cool and airy finish!